Casa Labra

Casa Labra is one of the oldest and most characterful taverns in central Madrid, tucked into Calle de Tetuán just off Puerta del Sol. It opened in 1860 and has a place in Spanish political history: the Spanish Socialist Workers' Party, the PSOE, was founded here in secret in 1879. The building keeps its traditional look, with a curved facade and old signage outside and a zinc counter, wooden fronts and marble tables inside.

The reason to come is the bacalao. Casa Labra's tajadas de bacalao, freshly fried pieces of battered salt cod, are a Madrid institution, and the house croquettes, also made with cod, are almost as popular. They are cheap, hot, and best eaten standing at the bar or on the pavement outside with a small glass of beer or wine. Other tapas include empanadillas, tortilla, Manchego cheese, Iberian ham and a short list of sandwiches, but most people stick to the cod.

The system can be confusing the first time. You usually order and pay at the takeaway window for the cod and croquettes, then take your ticket to collect, while drinks are ordered at the bar. Do as the regulars do and watch for a moment before joining the scrum. The separate restaurant dining room has been closed, so treat Casa Labra as a tapas stop rather than a sit-down meal.

The tavern opens for a lunchtime session and an evening session, with a break in the afternoon, and it is busiest at midday and in the early evening, when queues can stretch out of the door. It moves quickly, though, and the experience is part of the fun. It suits budget travellers, solo visitors and anyone who wants a taste of everyday Madrid. Space inside is tight, so it is not ideal with pushchairs.

Calle de Tetuán is a narrow street between Puerta del Sol and the shopping streets around Preciados, and Sol metro and Cercanías station is less than two minutes away. It makes a good first or last stop on a tapas crawl through the centre, and the Plaza Mayor and the Mercado de San Miguel are both within ten minutes on foot.