Taberna La Bola

Taberna La Bola is the place many Madrileños recommend for cocido madrileño, the city's signature stew. The tavern has stood on the corner of Calle de la Bola, a few minutes from the Royal Palace, since 1870, and it has been run by the same family for four generations. Its red-painted facade is easy to spot, and inside the dining rooms keep a traditional, slightly old-fashioned look that suits the food.

The cocido is cooked slowly in individual clay pots over holm oak charcoal, a method the family has kept for generations. Each diner gets their own pot, and the dish is served in stages in the traditional way: first the broth with noodles, then the chickpeas, vegetables and meats. It is a filling meal, and many people need nothing more, though there are desserts to finish.

Cocido is traditionally a lunchtime dish, especially in the colder months, and La Bola is busiest at midday and at weekends. It suits anyone who wants to try one of the great dishes of Madrid in a setting that has changed little in decades. Families and groups are welcome, though vegetarians will find little to eat here. Come hungry, and allow a good ninety minutes to work through the courses without rushing.

Cocido was long an everyday dish in Madrid homes, and eating it in a tavern that has served it for more than 150 years is one of the most direct ways to understand the city's food culture.

Booking is recommended, particularly for weekend lunches, and tables can be reserved online or by phone. The tavern also offers takeaway cocido through its own online shop. Opening hours vary through the week, with lunch served every day and longer hours later in the week, so check the website before planning an evening visit.

Calle de la Bola runs between Plaza de Santo Domingo and the area behind the Teatro Real. Ópera and Santo Domingo metro stations are both around five minutes' walk away, and the Royal Palace, the Plaza de Oriente and the Royal Collections Gallery are a short stroll west, which makes a cocido lunch an easy way to break up a morning of palace sightseeing.