Sobrino de Botín

Sobrino de Botín, usually just called Botín, is one of the most famous restaurants in Spain. It stands on Calle de Cuchilleros, just below the Arco de Cuchilleros at the south-west corner of the Plaza Mayor, and it is listed by Guinness World Records as the oldest restaurant in the world. The house traces its story back to 1725 and celebrates three centuries of history, although historians debate the earliest dates. The González family has run it since the 1930s.

The menu is built around Castilian roasts. The signature dish is cochinillo asado, roast suckling pig with crisp skin and tender meat, and roast lamb is the other great speciality. Sopa de ajo, a garlic soup with a poached egg, is the classic starter, and the rest of the menu covers traditional Spanish dishes such as cured ham, clams, grilled fish and simple desserts. Portions are generous and the cooking is straightforward, which is exactly the point.

Much of the appeal is the setting, an old building with several dining rooms that have kept their traditional character. Writers have long been drawn here: Ernest Hemingway mentions Botín and its suckling pig in the final pages of The Sun Also Rises, and the restaurant makes much of its literary links. It is very much on the tourist trail, so book early and expect a mix of visitors from around the world.

Botín is open every day from 13:00 until late evening. It is very popular, so book well in advance, particularly for dinner and weekends; the website notes that tables at the very start and end of service are sometimes easier to find online. Groups and families are welcome, and the hearty menu suits most ages, though vegetarians will find limited choice. Allow a good two hours for a relaxed meal with the roast.

Calle de Cuchilleros runs down from the Plaza Mayor through the arch of the same name, so the restaurant is two minutes from the square. Sol and La Latina are the nearest metro stations, both within about ten minutes on foot, and the taverns of Cava Baja are close by for a drink before or after.