Mercado de San Miguel

The Mercado de San Miguel is the most famous food market in Madrid and one of the city's most attractive buildings. It was officially inaugurated in May 1916 as a covered food market, built of wrought iron and glass to a design by the architect Alfonso Dubé. After decades of decline it was bought by private investors in 2003, its iron structure was carefully restored, and in 2009 it reopened as a gourmet market focused on eating and drinking rather than weekly shopping.

Today more than twenty stands sell food to eat on the spot. Expect Iberian ham carved to order, cheeses from Castile, Asturias and the Basque Country, oysters and other shellfish, Galician seafood, rice dishes, meatballs, croquettes and pintxos, plus stands for wine, cava, vermouth and beer. The idea is to graze: buy a small plate or two from one counter, a glass from another, and find a space at the shared standing tables. It is more expensive than a neighbourhood market and aimed squarely at visitors, but the quality is good and the setting is hard to beat.

The market is open every day from morning until midnight, and until 01:00 on Friday, Saturday and the eve of public holidays. It gets very crowded in the early evening and at weekends, when it can be hard to move around, so for a calmer visit go late morning on a weekday or later in the evening after the first wave of diners. Seating is limited and mostly standing, which suits a quick stop rather than a long meal. Families are welcome, though pushchairs can be awkward at busy times.

Treat it as a starting point for a night out in the old town rather than the whole evening. Many visitors have a drink and a couple of bites here, then move on to the taverns of Cava Baja and La Latina a few minutes south. Keep an eye on bags and phones in the crowds, as with any busy tourist spot.

The market sits just outside the west side of the Plaza Mayor, a short walk down the steps from the square. Sol and Ópera metro stations are each around five to ten minutes on foot, and the Royal Palace is reached by a short walk along Calle Mayor.