Thing to do
Mercado de San Miguel
A 1916 iron and glass market beside the Plaza Mayor, reopened in 2009 as a gourmet tapas hall with more than 20 stalls open until late.
Madrid's historic open-air flea market, held on Sunday and public holiday mornings around Plaza de Cascorro and the Ribera de Curtidores.
Good to know
El Rastro is Madrid's great open-air flea market and a Sunday ritual for many residents. It fills the sloping streets south of La Latina every Sunday and public holiday morning, with stalls running down the Ribera de Curtidores from the Plaza de Cascorro and spilling into the surrounding lanes. The name means "the trail", and the usual explanation is that it comes from the tanneries that once lined the Ribera de Curtidores and the trail left by animals taken between them and a nearby slaughterhouse.
The market sells a bit of everything, new and old. The main street is lined with clothing, bags, sunglasses and souvenirs, but the side streets are where the character lies. Different streets have their own specialities: art and prints on Calle San Cayetano, old books on Calle Carnero and Calle Carlos Arniches, magazines, cards and stamps around the Plaza del Campillo del Mundo Nuevo, and quirky clothes and accessories around the Plaza de Cascorro. Permanent antique shops and galleries along the Ribera de Curtidores and in its courtyards open on the same mornings.
Under municipal rules the market runs from 9:00 to 15:00, and crowds peak at around 11:00. Arrive early if you want to browse properly or have a serious look at the antiques; by late morning the main street is packed and moving slowly. Stalls start packing up in the early afternoon. Bargaining is common at the second-hand stalls, less so at stands selling new goods. Bring cash in small notes, and keep valuables in a front pocket or a zipped bag, as pickpockets work the crowds.
The market suits curious browsers, collectors and anyone who enjoys people-watching. With children, it is best early on before the crush. Afterwards, do as the locals do and head to the bars of La Latina for vermouth and tapas, particularly around Cava Baja, Calle de la Cava Alta and the Plaza de la Cebada, which are busy with Sunday crowds by lunchtime.
La Latina metro station on line 5 is the most convenient stop, a few minutes north of the Plaza de Cascorro. Tirso de Molina and Embajadores stations are also close, and the Plaza Mayor is around ten minutes' walk away.
On Sundays and public holidays, from 9:00 to 15:00.
Around the Plaza de Cascorro and down the Ribera de Curtidores, south of La Latina.
New and second-hand goods, antiques, books, art, clothing, stamps and curiosities.
Early, before the crowds peak around 11:00.
Bargaining is common at second-hand and antique stalls.
Generally yes, but pickpockets operate in the crowds, so keep valuables secure.
La Latina on line 5, with Tirso de Molina and Embajadores also nearby.
The tapas bars of La Latina, especially around Cava Baja, are popular on Sunday lunchtimes.
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