Plaza Mayor

The Plaza Mayor is the grand ceremonial square of old Madrid, a vast enclosed rectangle surrounded by uniform arcaded buildings. A market had been held on the site since the 15th century, and the square itself was built under Philip III, led by the architect Juan Gómez de Mora and completed in 1619. Over the centuries it has hosted markets, bullfights, coronations, celebrations and public executions, including an auto-da-fé of the Spanish Inquisition in 1680.

The square measures roughly 129 by 94 metres and is overlooked by 237 balconies. Three major fires, in 1631, 1670 and 1790, damaged it badly, and its present appearance largely dates from the rebuilding directed by Juan de Villanueva after the last fire, when the buildings were reduced in height and the corners closed. The most decorated facade is the Casa de la Panadería, named after the bakery that once stood there, which is covered with a colourful mural painted by Carlos Franco in 1992. In the centre stands a bronze equestrian statue of Philip III by Giambologna and Pietro Tacca, moved here in 1848.

There are ten entrances, and the best known is the Arco de Cuchilleros in the south-west corner, where steep steps lead down to Calle de Cuchilleros and the old taverns of the Madrid de los Austrias. Sobrino de Botín, often described as the world's oldest restaurant, is just round the corner. The tourist information centre is in the Casa de la Panadería.

The square is free to visit and open at all times, and it is at its most atmospheric early in the morning or late in the evening when the crowds thin out. The terraces under the arcades are convenient for a coffee, though you pay for the view. In December the square hosts a well-known Christmas market selling decorations, nativity figures and novelty items, and it is a popular stop on New Year's Eve and during the San Isidro festivities in May. Pickpockets operate where crowds gather, so keep an eye on your belongings.

Puerta del Sol is a five-minute walk east, and Sol metro station is the most convenient stop. The Mercado de San Miguel is just outside the west side of the square, and the Royal Palace is around ten minutes on foot along Calle Mayor.