Parque del Buen Retiro

The Parque del Buen Retiro, usually just called El Retiro, is the green heart of Madrid and the place locals go to walk, run, row and relax. It began in the 1630s as the gardens of a royal palace built for Philip IV, and it stayed in royal hands until 1868, when it became a public park. Much of the palace and the original gardens were destroyed during the Peninsular War, but the park that remains covers around 118 hectares. In 2021 it became part of the UNESCO World Heritage site together with the Paseo del Prado.

The Estanque Grande, the large rectangular lake near the northern side, is the busiest spot, with rowing boats for hire and the grand colonnaded Monument to Alfonso XII rising above it. To the south, the Palacio de Cristal is a glass and iron pavilion built in 1887 beside its own small lake, and the nearby Palacio de Velázquez dates from 1884. Both are used by the Reina Sofía for free exhibitions, although the Palacio de Cristal is temporarily closed for works. The Rosaleda, laid out in 1915, holds more than 4,000 rose bushes and is at its best in May and June, and the Fountain of the Fallen Angel shows Lucifer falling from heaven.

The park suits everyone. Families come for the boats, puppet shows and playgrounds, runners use the long avenues, and couples and solo travellers can find a quiet bench under the trees. Weekends are lively, with street performers around the lake, while weekday mornings are calmer. In summer, the shade is welcome, but the hottest hours of the afternoon are best avoided.

Entry is free. The park opens every day, with longer opening hours in spring and summer than in autumn and winter, and some areas can close during strong winds or extreme weather. There are kiosks and terraces for drinks and snacks around the lake and the main paths. Allow at least an hour for a loop, or half a day if you want to row, visit the pavilions and picnic.

The main gate on Plaza de la Independencia faces the Puerta de Alcalá, and Retiro metro station is at the north side of the park. The Prado is a short walk from the western gates on Calle de Alfonso XII, so it is easy to combine the park with a museum visit.