Frici Papa

Frici Papa is a kifőzde, a simple Hungarian eatery that serves home-style cooking at low prices, on Király utca at the northern edge of the Jewish Quarter. Places like this were once found on almost every street in Budapest, feeding office workers and neighbours with the dishes they would eat at home, and Frici Papa keeps that tradition going in the centre. It is popular with local workers, students and travellers on a budget.

The menu is long and practical. Főzelék, thick vegetable stews made with lentils, peas, potatoes or squash and usually topped with a fried egg or a sausage, are an essential part of Hungarian everyday food and well worth trying. There are also fried dishes such as breaded pork or chicken, roasts, pörkölt stews and soups, a daily-changing menu and home-made cakes and pastries. Portions are generous and prices are among the lowest you will find in the area.

Do not expect anything fancy: the dining room is plain and practical, tables turn over quickly and service is efficient rather than leisurely. That is part of the appeal, and it is a good place to eat as locals do. You can eat in or take food away. Vegetarians can usually find several főzelék options without meat toppings, but ask staff to be sure.

Frici Papa is open from Monday to Saturday, 11:00 to 22:00; check before planning a Sunday visit. There is no need to book, but lunchtime on weekdays is the busiest period, so arrive a little before noon or after 14:00 for an easier table. Have some cash in forints as a backup. The daily menu changes, so ask staff if you need help with the Hungarian names of the dishes.

Király utca is one of the main streets of District VI and VII, lined with design shops, cafés and bars. Frici Papa is close to the Grand Boulevard, where trams 4 and 6 stop at Király utca, and Oktogon on metro line M1 is a short walk away. Liszt Ferenc tér, the Liszt Academy and the Jewish Quarter's ruin bars are all within ten minutes on foot.