Seoul City Wall Trail (Hanyangdoseong)

Hanyangdoseong, the Seoul City Wall, was built in 1396 to enclose the new Joseon capital, then called Hanyang. It ran for about 18.6 kilometres along the ridges of the four mountains around the old city, Bugaksan to the north, Naksan to the east, Namsan to the south and Inwangsan to the west, and much of it has been restored. Today a continuous walking trail follows the line of the wall, giving one of the best ways to understand how the city grew within its natural defences.

The wall was built with eight gates, six of which survive. The four great gates are Sungnyemun in the south, Heunginjimun in the east, Sukjeongmun in the north and Donuimun, which is lost, in the west, while the smaller gates include Changuimun, Hyehwamun and Gwanghuimun. Along the way you can see how the stonework changes from rough early stones to the neatly cut blocks of later repairs.

The trail is usually walked in sections rather than all at once. The Naksan section is the gentlest and most popular, running from Heunginjimun up through Naksan Park, with views of the city lights at dusk and the murals and lanes of Ihwa-dong close by. The Namsan section combines naturally with a visit to N Seoul Tower. The Bugaksan and Inwangsan sections are steeper mountain walks with long stone staircases and the best views over Gyeongbokgung and the city centre. Completing the whole loop takes a long day of hiking.

The route suits active travellers, walkers and photographers, and the Naksan section is manageable for most families. Wear proper shoes, carry water, and avoid the steeper mountain sections in icy weather or heavy rain. The trail is free and open every day, though some mountain sections have their own access hours. Spring and autumn are the most comfortable seasons, and late afternoon gives good light on the Naksan and Inwangsan stretches.

For the Naksan section, start at Dongdaemun Station on Lines 1 and 4, by Heunginjimun, where the Seoul City Wall Museum explains the wall's history; alternatively begin at Hyehwa Station on Line 4. Changuimun, at the start of the Bugaksan section, is reached by bus from Gyeongbokgung Station.