Thing to do
Gwangjang Market
One of Seoul's oldest traditional markets, dating from 1905, where rows of food stalls serve mung bean pancakes, mayak gimbap and noodles beside fabric merchants.
A central street of galleries, craft shops, antique dealers and traditional tea houses, best explored on foot, with the Ssamziegil arcade at its centre.
Good to know
Insadong is the district most closely associated with traditional Korean arts and crafts in central Seoul. Its main street, Insadong-gil, runs from near Anguk Station down towards Jongno, and the narrow lanes that branch off it are lined with galleries, antique dealers, stationery and calligraphy shops, potters and small restaurants. During the Joseon dynasty the area was home to officials and artists, and it later became the centre of the city's antiques and art trade.
A walk along the main street takes in a wide range of shops. Look for hanji (traditional mulberry paper), calligraphy brushes and ink stones, celadon and white porcelain, lacquerware inlaid with mother-of-pearl and brassware. Napcheong Bronzeware sells handmade bangjja bronze tableware by a master craftsman recognised as intangible cultural heritage. Ssamziegil, a spiral arcade of more than 70 small shops built around a courtyard, sells work by young designers, and the alleys hide traditional tea houses where you can sit on floor cushions and drink jujube, ginger or citron tea. Museum Kimchikan, about kimchi and its place in Korean life, is also in the area.
Insadong suits souvenir hunters, couples and families, and it is a good choice for a relaxed afternoon after a palace visit. Quality varies, so compare before you buy antiques or expensive ceramics. The main street is closed to traffic on Sundays in particular, when buskers and street performers add to the atmosphere, although it is also at its busiest then. Weekday mornings are quiet, but some shops open late, so the afternoon is the best compromise.
Allow two to three hours if you want to browse properly and stop for tea. Traditional restaurants along the side lanes serve set meals, and street snacks such as honey thread candy are sold along the main street.
Anguk Station on Line 3 is at the northern end of the street, while Jonggak Station on Line 1 and Jongno 3-ga Station on Lines 1, 3 and 5 are close to the southern end. Jogyesa Temple is just to the west, Ikseon-dong's hanok cafés are a few minutes east, and Bukchon Hanok Village and the Nagwon Instrument Arcade are both within walking distance.
Galleries, antique dealers, traditional crafts such as hanji paper and ceramics, and old-style tea houses.
Yes. The streets are free to explore; you only pay for what you buy, eat or drink.
Weekday afternoons are relaxed; Sundays are livelier, with the main street closed to traffic and street performers out.
A spiral shopping arcade on the main street with more than 70 shops, galleries and cafés selling work by Korean designers.
Several tea houses in the side lanes serve teas such as jujube, ginger and citron in traditional rooms.
Two to three hours to browse properly and stop for tea or a meal.
Take Line 3 to Anguk Station for the north end, or Line 1 to Jonggak Station for the south end.
Jogyesa Temple, Ikseon-dong, Bukchon Hanok Village and the Nagwon Instrument Arcade.
Hotel
The first Four Seasons in South Korea, a luxury hotel near Gwanghwamun with palace and Namsan views, a year-round pool and the Michelin-starred Yu Yuan.
Attraction
The first and largest royal palace of the Joseon dynasty, founded in 1395 and home to the throne hall Geunjeongjeon and the Gyeonghoeru banquet pavilion.
Restaurant
Chef Mingoo Kang's tasting-menu restaurant in Gangnam, holder of three Michelin stars, which reworks Korean fermented sauces and seasonal produce with modern technique.
Café
The original branch of the Onion bakery café, set in a stripped-back 1970s building in Seongsu that once housed a factory, known for pandoro and butter…