Cairo Citadel

The Citadel was begun by Saladin between 1176 and 1183 on a spur of the Muqattam Hills, and for around 700 years it was the seat of government in Egypt. Later Mamluk and Ottoman rulers rebuilt and extended it, and the walled complex now contains mosques, palaces and museums from several periods. Its position above the old city makes it one of the best viewpoints in Cairo.

The building everyone recognises is the Mosque of Muhammad Ali, built between 1828 and 1848 in an Ottoman style that recalls the great mosques of Istanbul. Its domes and slim pencil minarets dominate the skyline, and the interior is lit by hanging lamps under a huge central dome. Muhammad Ali, the ruler who founded modern Egypt, is buried here. Nearby, the Mosque of al-Nasir Muhammad, completed in 1318, was the royal mosque of the Mamluk sultans and is a quieter, older counterpoint. The National Military Museum occupies the former Harem Palace in the northern enclosure, and the Police Museum terrace has some of the widest views.

The Citadel suits history lovers, photographers and families, and the open courtyards give children space. Allow two to three hours to see the mosques, the terraces and one museum. Dress modestly, as the mosques are working places of worship; shoulders and knees should be covered and shoes removed before entering prayer halls. Women may be asked to cover their hair.

The site is exposed, so it is best visited in the morning or late afternoon. On clear days you can make out the pyramids on the horizon from the terraces, though the city's haze often softens the view. Check opening times on the Ministry of Tourism and Antiquities website before you go, as they can change around holidays.

The Citadel is reached by taxi or ride-hailing app, and the drop-off is on the Salah Salem side. Directly below it are the Mosque-Madrasa of Sultan Hassan and the al-Rifa'i Mosque, and the Mosque of Ibn Tulun is a short ride away, so all three combine well into a day in Islamic Cairo. Taxis wait near the gate when you leave, but agree the fare first or use an app. A half-day guided tour often covers the Citadel together with Sultan Hassan and Coptic Cairo, which saves arranging transport between them.