Café de France

Café de France has stood on the edge of Jemaa el-Fnaa since 1912, making it one of the oldest cafés in Marrakech and a reference point for generations of visitors. It is a simple, traditional café rather than a design destination, and its appeal lies above all in its position.

The building rises over several floors, and the upper balconies and roof terraces look directly over the square. From late afternoon, as the snake charmers give way to musicians and storytellers and the food stalls are assembled, this is one of the best seats in the city to watch the scene change. At sunset the smoke from the grills rises against the minaret of the Koutoubia in the distance, and the square fills with light and sound.

The menu is straightforward: mint tea, coffee, including the local nous nous of half coffee and half milk, fresh juices, soft drinks and simple snacks. Most people order a drink and stay for as long as the view holds their attention. It is not the place for a gourmet meal, but it is an ideal pause before eating at the stalls below.

The café is open every day from early morning until late at night. The best upper-floor seats are in demand in the hour before sunset, so arrive early and be prepared to share a table or stand at the balustrade. Prices are modest. Access to the upper floors is by stairs, which can be narrow, and the terraces get crowded in the evening, so keep an eye on bags. Families with children should take care near the edges.

The café is on the north-eastern side of Jemaa el-Fnaa, near the entrance to the souks, so it is easy to find from anywhere in the medina. After your drink, the souks begin just behind it, mechoui alley and Chez Lamine Hadj Mustapha are a few minutes' walk away, and the Koutoubia is across the square. If the terraces are full, several neighbouring cafés offer similar views. Petits taxis drop off at the edges of the square, a short walk from the café door. Coming in the morning is quieter, when the terraces are calm and the square is only beginning to fill. Mint tea here is served sweet in the traditional way, so ask for it with less sugar if you prefer.