Thing to do
Caminito
A 100-metre painted alley in La Boca, transformed by the artist Benito Quinquela Martín from a disused railway line into an open-air street museum.
The Sunday antiques fair on Plaza Dorrego, started in 1970 to revive San Telmo and now spreading to more than 200 stalls of old objects and curiosities.
Good to know
The Feria de San Telmo is the Sunday ritual of the city's oldest quarter. It is held on Plaza Dorrego, a small paved square surrounded by restored 19th-century buildings, and it has become one of the best-known antique fairs in the Americas. If you are in Buenos Aires on a Sunday, it deserves a place in your plans.
The fair began in 1970 as a way to bring life back to San Telmo. The architect José María Peña, then director of the Museo de la Ciudad, proposed it and persuaded 30 local residents to bring out old things from their homes and sell them in the square. Within a year there were more than 200 antique stalls. The square itself has a long history: it is a National Historic Monument, and in September 1816 residents gathered here to hear the news of the independence declared at the Congress of Tucumán on 9 July that year. In colonial times the area was a stopping point for ox carts before they crossed a stream into the city.
The stalls are devoted to antiques and old objects, in keeping with the fair's origins, which makes it as much a place to browse as to buy. Street artists gather in and around the plaza, so music and performance are part of the atmosphere. The antique shops along Calle Defensa and the cafés and restaurants in the old buildings around the square continue the theme, and the walk along Defensa is part of the experience.
The fair runs every Sunday. The city tourism website does not publish set hours, so it is best to arrive from late morning and stay into the afternoon, when the square is at its fullest. Bring cash for small purchases and look closely before you buy. Crowds can be dense, so keep bags closed and phones secure.
The fair suits collectors, photographers, couples and anyone who enjoys browsing. Allow two to three hours if you want to walk the length of Defensa as well. Plaza Dorrego is in the heart of San Telmo, and on the same day you can continue south to La Boca and Caminito or stop for lunch at one of the neighbourhood's traditional parrillas, such as La Brigada.
Every Sunday, in and around Plaza Dorrego.
The city tourism website does not list set hours; most visitors arrive from late morning and stay into the afternoon.
Mainly antiques and old objects, as the fair has been since it began with residents selling old belongings.
In 1970 the architect José María Peña persuaded 30 residents to sell old belongings on the square to revive San Telmo; within a year there were over 200 stalls.
Yes, entry is free; you only pay for what you buy.
Yes, cash is useful for small purchases at the stalls.
The antique shops of Calle Defensa, cafés around the square and San Telmo's traditional parrillas.
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