Café
Café Tortoni
The oldest café in Buenos Aires, founded in 1858 and named after its Parisian namesake, with marble tables, a literary past and tango in the basement.
El Gato Negro
A spice shop and tea room on Avenida Corrientes, open since 1927, with oak counters, Thonet chairs and coffee roasted and ground in view.
At a glance
- Type
- Historic spice shop and tea room
- Area
- San Nicolás, Buenos Aires, Argentina
- Price
- $$ · Mid-range
- Opening
- Open daily
- Official site
- donvictoriano.com.ar
Good to know
- Coffee roasted on site
- Spice counter
- Original early-20th-century fittings
Why we recommend it
El Gato Negro is one of the most atmospheric stops on Avenida Corrientes. It opened in 1927 as a shop selling spices from around the world, and it still does, so the shelves are still stocked with spices as well as teas and coffee. The business today trades under the Don Victoriano name, which is also the name of its website.
The interior has kept its original early-20th-century decoration in the style of an elegant old grocery: counters and display cases of oak and Italian ash, Dutch bronze chandeliers and authentic Thonet tables and chairs, with knowledgeable staff behind the counter. It feels more like a European apothecary than a typical Buenos Aires café, and it is a welcome contrast to the noise of the avenue outside.
What makes it special for coffee lovers is that the coffee is roasted and ground in full view of customers. There is a separate area where you can sit with a coffee or a pot of tea, surrounded by the shop's original fittings. The shop sells black, red, blue and green tea blends, herbal infusions, aromatic herbs, spice blends and coffees such as a Colombian ground coffee with cardamom and Brazilian Santos beans, as well as Peugeot grinders and teapots, so it is a good place for souvenirs that are easy to pack. The café also offers brunch.
El Gato Negro suits solo travellers, couples and anyone who enjoys historic shops. It is a calm place for a mid-morning break or an afternoon tea between sights, and a visit of 30 to 45 minutes is usually enough. The shop's website lists opening hours of 09:00 to 21:00 from Monday to Thursday, 09:00 to 01:00 on Friday and Saturday and 11:00 to 22:00 on Sunday, so it is a useful stop late in the evening at weekends.
The shop is at Avenida Corrientes 1669, on the same avenue as Pizzería Güerrín at number 1368, so the two make an easy pairing for a coffee and a slice in the centre. For enquiries, call +54 11 4374 1730 or use the WhatsApp line listed on the website.
El Gato Negro FAQs
When did El Gato Negro open?
In 1927, as a shop selling spices from around the world.
Can you sit down for a drink?
Yes. There is a separate area serving teas and coffees.
Is the coffee roasted on site?
Yes. Coffee is roasted and ground in view of customers.
What is the interior like?
It keeps its original early-20th-century oak counters and shelves, with Thonet tables and chairs.
Can I buy spices to take home?
Yes, spices, teas and coffee are sold over the counter.
What are the opening hours?
Monday to Thursday 09:00 to 21:00, Friday and Saturday 09:00 to 01:00 and Sunday 11:00 to 22:00, according to its website.
Where is it?
At Avenida Corrientes 1669, on the same avenue as Pizzería Güerrín.