Phnom Bakheng

Phnom Bakheng is one of the earliest temples in the central Angkor area and one of the best viewpoints in the park. It was built at the end of the 9th century during the reign of King Yasovarman, who ruled from 889 to 910, and dedicated to Shiva. When Yasovarman moved his court from Hariharalaya, in today's Roluos area, he founded a new capital, Yasodharapura, with Phnom Bakheng at its centre, and for a time it was the principal temple of the Angkor region.

The temple crowns a natural hill that rises about 65 metres above the surrounding plain. It is a temple mountain built as a stepped pyramid, and it was originally surrounded by 108 small towers at ground level and on its tiers. Most of these have collapsed, but their bases still give the terraces their rhythm. One scholarly reading links the number 108 to the phases of the moon. From the top you look out over the forest towards the towers of Angkor Wat, about 1.5 kilometres to the south-east.

Bakheng's popularity is also its problem. Large numbers of visitors climb it for sunset, and it is regarded as one of the most threatened monuments at Angkor. Since 2004 the World Monuments Fund has worked with the APSARA authority to conserve it, so treat the fragile stone with care. Arrive well before sunset if you want a good spot, or come in the morning when it is calmer.

The official Angkor Enterprise website lists Phnom Bakheng as open from 5am to 7pm, and it is covered by the Angkor Pass. Reaching the summit involves a walk up the hill followed by steep steps on the temple itself, so allow time and go at your own pace. Bring water and a torch for the descent after sunset.

Bakheng sits between Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom, so it fits easily at the end of a day exploring the central temples. Photographers should note that the view of Angkor Wat is distant, so a zoom lens helps. Visitors who find steep steps difficult may prefer to enjoy sunset from the Angkor Wat moat instead and visit Bakheng earlier in the day.