Karim’s

Karim's is the most famous restaurant in Old Delhi and a fixture of almost every food walk through the lanes around the Jama Masjid. Its story begins with the Mughal court: the family were royal cooks, and after the last emperor, Bahadur Shah Zafar, was exiled, they had to find other work. In 1911 Haji Karimuddin set up a stall outside the Jama Masjid to feed visitors arriving around the time of George V's coronation, serving aloo gosht and dal with roti, and in 1913 he opened Karim's Hotel in Gali Kababian, the lane of kebabs opposite the mosque.

More than a century later the family is still involved, and the brand has grown to more than 50 outlets across India and the UAE. The original branch is the one to visit, both for the atmosphere and because it is so close to the Jama Masjid and the Red Fort. It has three or four separate seating sections to cope with the crowds.

The menu is long and almost entirely meat. Mutton korma in a red curry, eaten with sheermal, a flatbread that is a house speciality, is the classic order. Burra, marinated and slightly charred chicken or mutton, and the mutton kebabs are also popular, as are the Mughlai-style biryanis, which are less spicy than many. Badam pasanda and chicken Mughlai are other favourites, and mutton nihari is on the menu too. Tandoori bakra, a whole roasted goat for a group, needs to be ordered a day in advance.

Prices are moderate, the service is efficient and friendly, and the turnover is quick. Expect a crowd from the morning onwards, and a short wait at busy times. Vegetarian options are very limited.

It suits meat lovers, budget travellers and anyone who wants to taste the Mughlai cooking Old Delhi is known for. Combine it with a visit to the Jama Masjid, or end a food walk here.

The restaurant is reached on foot through one of the alleys opposite the Jama Masjid. Chawri Bazaar metro station is around five minutes away by cycle rickshaw, which can drop you in front of the mosque.