Johari Bazaar

Johari Bazaar is the jewellers' market of Jaipur's walled city; 'johari' simply means jeweller. It runs through the heart of the Pink City close to Hawa Mahal, and it is one of the best places to understand how the old city was meant to work. When Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II founded Jaipur in 1727, he intended it to be a major trading centre for northern India, and his architect Vidyadhar Bhattacharya laid out the town in rectangular blocks with wide streets and matching rows of shopfronts. Johari Bazaar still follows that plan, even if the traffic and the signboards are thoroughly modern.

The street has long been the home of Jaipur's gem and jewellery trade. Historically, Jain merchant families of the Shvetambar community, including the Shrimal and Oswal clans, were at the core of the gemstone business and lived in havelis close to the market. Many shops are still family-run, passed down through generations. Earlier in the 20th century, senior jewellers would gather in the market after work and share thandai, a spiced milk drink, which gives a sense of how social the trade has always been.

Look out for two traditional jewellery techniques associated with Jaipur. Kundan work sets stones in fine gold foil over a lac core, while thewa involves fusing delicate patterned gold sheet onto coloured glass. Both are said to date back to the Mughal period. Alongside the jewellers you will find smaller shops selling silver, semi-precious stones and everyday goods, so it is worth wandering even if you have no intention of buying gold.

If you plan to buy anything valuable, take your time, compare several shops and ask for proper receipts and certification for gemstones. Be cautious of anyone who approaches you in the street offering to take you to a 'special' shop or proposing that you buy gems to resell abroad. The Rajasthan tourism department notes that markets in Jaipur are generally closed on Sundays, so plan a weekday or Saturday visit.

The bazaar is easily combined with Hawa Mahal, City Palace and Jantar Mantar, all a short walk away. Late afternoon is a good time to come, when the light softens on the pink facades and shoppers fill the street. Wear comfortable shoes, keep valuables secure in the crowds, and carry water in the warmer months. For further browsing, the state tourism department also recommends Bapu Bazaar, Nehru Bazaar and the stalls around Badi and Choti Chaupar.