Café
VCR Galloway
VCR began in a 1927 house on Jalan Galloway in Pudu and remains one of Kuala Lumpur's best-loved cafes for specialty coffee, big breakfasts and cakes.
Ho Kow Hainam Kopitiam
Founded in 1956 as a Hainanese coffee stall in Chinatown, Ho Kow Hainam Kopitiam serves kopi, kaya butter toast and nasi lemak from a shophouse on Jalan Balai Polis.
At a glance
- Type
- Traditional Hainanese kopitiam
- Area
- Chinatown, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
- Price
- $ · Budget
- Official site
- instagram.com
Good to know
- Breakfast and lunch
- Kaya toast
- Local coffee
- Closed Mondays
Why we recommend it
Ho Kow Hainam Kopitiam is the place to experience a traditional Malaysian Chinese coffee shop breakfast in the heart of Chinatown. Its story goes back to 1956, when Ho Kow's father opened a stall called Soon Kee in Lorong Panggung, selling Hainanese snacks, tea, soft-boiled eggs and toast. In 2018, after an eviction order, the business moved a short distance to a shophouse on Jalan Balai Polis, and it is now run by Ho Kow's daughter, Ho Sook Chan, together with her children, keeping it firmly in the family.
The interior leans into nostalgia, with old-school decor that recalls the kopitiams of earlier decades, and it is popular with locals and visitors alike. Hainanese coffee shops are known for their roasted coffee, and Ho Kow serves kopi in the classic styles, including kopi c, with evaporated milk, and cham, a mix of coffee and tea. Order them hot or iced.
For food, start with kaya and butter toast, the essential kopitiam breakfast of toasted bread spread with sweet coconut and egg jam and slabs of cold butter, ideally with soft-boiled eggs on the side. Buns and other snacks are on offer, and for something more substantial the nasi lemak with fried chicken, nasi lemak ayam goreng, is a popular order. Prices are low, which makes it an easy, inexpensive start to a day of sightseeing.
Ho Kow is open for breakfast and lunch only, from 7.30am, closing in the mid-afternoon, and it is closed on Mondays. It is very popular, and waits of around half an hour are common at peak times, especially on weekends, so arrive soon after opening if you can. Expect to share the experience with a crowd. It suits families, budget travellers and anyone curious about everyday Malaysian food culture.
Jalan Balai Polis is in Chinatown, close to Petaling Street, and a short walk from Kwai Chai Hong, the restored lane of murals, and from the old Soon Kee site on Lorong Panggung. Pasar Seni and Maharajalela stations are within walking distance. After breakfast, you can walk to Central Market, the Sri Mahamariamman Temple and Merdeka Square.
Ho Kow Hainam Kopitiam FAQs
How old is Ho Kow Hainam Kopitiam?
It began in 1956 as the Soon Kee stall on Lorong Panggung and moved to Jalan Balai Polis in 2018.
What should I order?
Kaya and butter toast with soft-boiled eggs, kopi or cham, and nasi lemak ayam goreng for something heartier.
What are the opening hours?
Time Out lists Tuesday to Friday 07:30 to 14:30 and weekends 07:30 to 15:00, closed Mondays; check its Instagram for changes.
Is there usually a queue?
Yes, waits of around 30 minutes are common at peak times.
What is cham?
A drink mixing coffee and tea, a kopitiam classic.
Is it expensive?
No, it is an inexpensive traditional coffee shop.
Who runs it today?
Ho Kow's daughter, Ho Sook Chan, and her children.
How do I get there?
Walk from Pasar Seni or Maharajalela stations; it is close to Petaling Street in Chinatown.