Florida Road, Morningside

Florida Road climbs gently through Morningside, on the Berea ridge above the city centre, and it is the street most Durbanites suggest when visitors ask where to eat, drink or simply sit and watch the city go by. It runs from Sandile Thusi Road up to Innes Road, and for most of that distance it is lined with restaurants, pavement cafes, bars, galleries and small shops, many of them in carefully preserved Edwardian houses more than a century old.

The street has a longer history than its modern image suggests. South Africa's first municipal tramline was laid along Florida Road and opened in September 1892, pulled by horses. Today the old houses on the main road have been turned over to business, creating a walkable strip where you can move from breakfast to an afternoon gallery visit and on to dinner and drinks without needing a car.

Food covers a wide range, from Indian curries, a Durban speciality, to Mexican-inspired dishes, steakhouses, cafes and bakeries, with several well-known restaurants and coffee shops covered elsewhere in this guide. Art lovers can look in at the African Art Centre and private galleries such as the Artisan Contemporary Gallery and the Elizabeth Gordon Gallery, and there are boutiques selling clothes by South African designers. The pavement cafes are busy from early in the morning, while the bars fill up as the kitchens close and some stay open into the early hours, especially at weekends.

Florida Road suits couples, groups of friends and anyone staying in the northern suburbs or the boutique guesthouses of Morningside. Families will find it most comfortable during the day. Plan on a couple of hours for a meal and a stroll, or a full evening if you are heading out for dinner and drinks. Book popular restaurants at weekends.

As in any busy nightlife area, take the usual city precautions when you are out late: use ride-hailing apps rather than walking long distances at night, keep your phone out of sight and stick to busy, well-lit sections. Mitchell Park and its small zoo are in the same suburb, and the Durban Botanic Gardens and Moses Mabhida Stadium are a short drive away.