Duyichu (Qianmen)

Duyichu is one of the oldest restaurants on Qianmen Street, with a history going back to 1738, during the reign of the Qianlong Emperor. The Beijing government lists its Qianmen branch at 38 Qianmen Street as the brand's first branch. It is famous for shaomai, steamed dumplings, and its shaomai-making craft was added to China's national list of intangible cultural heritage in 2008. It was also named a Chinese Famous Snack in 2000.

The restaurant's name comes with a well-known story recorded by the Beijing government. The shop was founded by Wang Ruifu, a native of Shanxi, as a small liquor shop on Qianmen that hung a gourd outside. One New Year's Eve, the Qianlong Emperor, returning to the city from Tongzhou, found it was the only shop still open, ate there and named it Duyichu, meaning the only place in the capital. A few days later he sent a plaque with the name, and business took off.

Shaomai are the reason to come. The fillings change with the seasons: spring chive in spring, courgette and vegetarian fillings in summer, crab meat in autumn, and in winter pork with green onion, shrimp, sea cucumber and other combinations. The menu also includes zha sanjiao, a fried triangular snack, braised pork with malian and a range of Shandong-style stir-fried dishes, so you can make a full meal of it.

The style is traditional and the prices moderate. It is a good place to try a classic Beijing snack in a historic setting, and suits families, groups and anyone exploring Qianmen. Ordering a basket of seasonal shaomai and a couple of other dishes is a good way to start.

Seasonal shaomai change through the year, so a return visit brings a different menu.

Qianmen Street is close to Zhengyangmen, the Qianmen gate at the southern end of Tiananmen Square. Quanjude's original roast duck restaurant is a few doors away at No. 30, so you can compare two of Beijing's oldest food brands on the same afternoon. Dashilar, home to the Beijing Postcards history space on Yangmeizhu Street, is close by, and Lao She Teahouse is a short walk away on Qianmen West Street.