Baphuon

The Baphuon stands just north-west of the Bayon inside Angkor Thom, and it rewards anyone who takes the time to climb it. It was built in the middle of the 11th century as the state temple of King Udayadityavarman II and dedicated to Shiva. It is a three-tiered temple mountain on an artificial hill, and it gave its name to the Baphuon style of Khmer art.

The temple is big. Its base measures 120 metres from east to west and 100 metres from north to south, and it stands about 34 metres high without its tower, which would have taken it to around 50 metres. In the late 15th century, after the temple had been converted to Buddhism, builders added a huge reclining Buddha to the west side, around 9 metres high and 70 metres long. Its construction probably required the demolition of the temple's upper tower, and the figure is easy to miss at first, so step back on the west side to make out its outline.

The Baphuon's modern story is as remarkable as its age. Built on sand, it was unstable from the start, and much of it had collapsed by the 20th century. French archaeologists began dismantling and rebuilding it in 1960, but the work was halted by the Khmer Rouge and the records of where each stone belonged were lost. A French-led team led by architect Pascal Royere resumed the work in the 1990s, piecing the stones back together in what has been called the largest three-dimensional jigsaw puzzle in the world. The restored temple reopened in 2011, 51 years after work began.

The official Angkor Enterprise website lists the Baphuon as open from 7:30am to 5:30pm, and it is covered by the Angkor Pass. The upper levels are reached by steep steps, so allow time and take care. Around 45 minutes is enough for most visitors.

The Baphuon adjoins the southern enclosure of the old royal palace, so you can walk on through the palace grounds to the Terrace of the Elephants. With the Bayon a few minutes away, it fits neatly into a morning in Angkor Thom.