Attraction
Angkor Wat
Suryavarman II's 12th-century temple to Vishnu, the largest religious monument in the world and the centrepiece of the Angkor World Heritage Site.
Indravarman I's state temple of 881 in the Roluos group, a five-level sandstone pyramid that predates Angkor Wat by more than two centuries.
Good to know
Bakong is the best known of the Roluos group of temples, about 13 kilometres east of Siem Reap along National Highway 6, and it shows where the story of Angkor began. It stood within Hariharalaya, an early royal capital in the area now called Roluos, and was built by King Indravarman I as the official state temple of the Khmer Empire. It was completed in 881, more than two centuries before Angkor Wat. The Roluos temples are among the earliest permanent Khmer structures and mark the start of the classical period of Khmer architecture.
Bakong is an early example of the temple mountain, the stepped pyramid that later reached its peak at Angkor Wat. The central pyramid, built of sandstone, measures roughly 65 by 67 metres at the base and rises through five levels to a sanctuary at the summit. Two moats surround three concentric enclosures. Stone elephants stand at the corners of the lower terraces, and lions guard the stairways. The tower at the top was rebuilt in the 12th century and reflects the style of Angkor Wat rather than the original 9th-century design, which makes for an interesting comparison with the older work below.
The atmosphere here is gentler than at the main Angkor temples. A modern Buddhist temple stands just outside the eastern gateway, and the setting feels part of everyday local life. Climb to the summit for a view over the surrounding countryside, then walk around the lower terraces to look at the elephants and the details of the enclosures.
The Roluos group is covered by the Angkor Pass. It makes a good half-day trip, and Bakong is usually combined with the other two main temples of the group, Preah Ko and Lolei. Lolei, a 9th-century temple of sandstone, laterite and brick, now ruined, also has a working Theravada Buddhist monastery on the site. Allow about an hour at Bakong itself. The steps to the summit are steep, so wear sturdy shoes, and bring water and sun protection.
Bakong suits travellers who have already seen the famous central temples and want to understand how Khmer architecture developed, as well as anyone looking for a quieter temple away from the crowds. Respectful dress is sensible because of the Buddhist temple next door, and a tuk-tuk from town takes you straight along the highway to the site.
It is in the Roluos group, on the site of the early capital Hariharalaya, about 13 km east of Siem Reap along National Highway 6.
King Indravarman I completed it in 881 as the state temple of the Khmer Empire.
Yes, the Roluos group is included in the Angkor Pass.
It is an early sandstone temple mountain with five levels, two moats and stone elephants at the corners of the terraces.
No. The summit tower dates from the 12th century and reflects the style of Angkor Wat.
About an hour at Bakong, or half a day if you also visit Preah Ko and Lolei.
Yes, a modern Buddhist temple stands just outside the eastern gateway, so dress respectfully.
It is usually quieter than the main Angkor temples, which suits visitors looking for a calmer experience.
Restaurant
Chef Joannes Riviere's dinner-only restaurant in a traditional wooden house, serving regularly changing eight-course tasting menus of seasonal Cambodian produce.
Café
A speciality coffee café open since late 2014, blending Australian café culture with Cambodian touches, known for espresso, cold drip and simple breakfasts.
Bar
An intimate cocktail lounge on Street 26 styled after 1930s Shanghai, serving martinis, a Raffles-recipe Singapore Sling and home-style Chinese dishes.
Tour operator
A conservation organisation running eco-tours to the Prek Toal floating village and bird sanctuary on the Tonle Sap, with income supporting lake communities.