Antica Cantina Sepe

Antica Cantina Sepe is a fourth-generation family wine shop on Via Vergini, in the lively Sanità and Vergini neighbourhood north of the historic centre. By day it is a traditional cantina where locals buy wine; once a week, on Thursday evenings, it turns into one of the most enjoyable informal music venues in the city, with an aperitivo and live bands that range from local groups to international acts.

The appeal lies in its authenticity. This is a genuine neighbourhood business rather than a bar designed for visitors, and the Thursday nights draw a mixed crowd of residents, students, musicians and travellers who have heard about it by word of mouth. Wine is poured by the glass at modest prices, and people gather inside among the bottles and outside on the street when the room fills up.

The Sanità is one of the most characterful districts of Naples, known for its baroque palaces, its street markets and its strong community life, and in recent years it has become better known to visitors thanks to the Catacombs of San Gennaro and San Gaudioso and the work of local cooperatives. An evening at Sepe is a good way to see a side of the city that most visitors miss. The Via Vergini market area is busy by day and quieter at night, so it is sensible to arrive by taxi or with a group if you are unfamiliar with the area, and to keep valuables out of sight.

Because the music nights are informal, programmes and start times can change; check the cantina's social media pages for the current schedule before you go. Arrive early on Thursdays for a place inside. Prices are low, which adds to the convivial, unpretentious atmosphere.

It suits curious travellers, music fans and anyone looking for a local night out rather than a polished cocktail bar. Pair it with a daytime visit to the Catacombs of San Gennaro or a walk through the Sanità, perhaps with a fried pizza or a pastry from one of the district's well-known shops. Via Vergini is about ten minutes' walk north of the National Archaeological Museum; Museo and Piazza Cavour stations on metro Lines 1 and 2 are the nearest stops.