Taquería El Califa de León

El Califa de León is a small taquería on Avenida Ribera de San Cosme in San Rafael that holds a Michelin star, which made it the subject of Michelin's own article on Mexico's one-star taquería. It was founded more than 50 years ago by the parents of the current owner, Mario Hernández Alonso, and it takes its name from the nickname of the bullfighter Rodolfo Gaona, El Califa de León. It is a tiny place, with room inside for only three or four people: there are no tables, just a standing counter with room for a handful of people and a short list of tacos. Michelin has also flagged it as worth queueing for, and at busy times you will.

The taco everyone comes for is the gaonera. Thin slices of beef fillet are seared on the grill to order, seasoned simply with salt and a squeeze of lime, and folded into fresh corn tortillas. Two house-made salsas, a green one of raw tomatillo and a red one of pasilla chilli, sit on the counter for you to add as you like. The gaonera itself is named in honour of Gaona. The chuleta, a pork chop taco, and the costilla, a beef rib taco, are the other recommended orders, and bistec is also on the short menu. Arturo Rivera Martínez, who has worked the grill for around 20 years, is the man behind most of the tacos.

Practicalities are simple. Credit cards are not accepted, so bring cash. You eat standing at the counter, so a visit is quick once you reach the front. The Michelin Guide notes that the taquería manages its own bookings, so contact it directly if you are coming with a group; otherwise, expect to wait your turn.

It suits anyone who wants to taste a simple taco done well, and Michelin places it in its lowest price band. It is not the place for a long sit-down meal, so treat it as a stop on a day or evening out.

The taquería is at Avenida Ribera de San Cosme 56 in the San Rafael district of the Cuauhtémoc borough. Its listed phone number is the best way to check opening times before you travel, and it also has its own website.