Mary’s Milk Bar

Mary's Milk Bar is a tiny gelato and chocolate shop on the Grassmarket, with Edinburgh Castle rising directly above it. It is run by Mary, who makes all the gelato and chocolate on site every morning, and its flavours change daily and with the seasons.

The gelato is the main attraction. A small, carefully chosen range of flavours is made each day, so the line-up is always different, and it is worth looking at the shop's social media for the day's choice. The signature item is the hot chocolate float: you choose a gelato flavour and it is floated on a cup of hot chocolate, which makes a warming treat on a cold Edinburgh afternoon. A spaghetti sundae is also served, and gelato bricks of half a litre or a litre can be taken away, though they need to go in a freezer within about an hour. Chocolate bars, seasonal chocolate, gift vouchers and merchandise are also sold.

The shop pays attention to detail: takeaway packaging is compostable, and the bar and stools are made from recycled milk bottles and their tops by a Glasgow workshop. Most visitors enjoy their gelato while walking around the Grassmarket.

Opening hours change with the seasons. In winter the shop opens Wednesday to Saturday from 11am to 7.30pm and Sunday from 11am to 6pm, and the queue closes 15 minutes before closing time. In summer, queues can be long, especially in the afternoon and evening; the shop says it is always quiet in winter and between 11am and 2pm in summer, so a late-morning visit is the best way to avoid a wait.

Mary's Milk Bar suits families, couples and anyone with a sweet tooth, and the hot chocolate float is a good choice on a cold or wet day. It is an easy stop on a walk between the castle, Victoria Street and Greyfriars Kirkyard, all within a few minutes. The Grassmarket itself has many pubs and restaurants, and the castle rises directly above the square. After your gelato, walk up Victoria Street towards George IV Bridge and the Royal Mile, or head west along the West Port.