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Cantina Do Mori

Bar · Historic bacaro$San Polo, Venice

A historic wine bar near the Rialto Market, dating its origins to 1462 and said to have been frequented by Casanova, serving wine and francobolli sandwiches.

At a glance

Type
Historic bacaro
Area
San Polo, Venice, Italy
Price
$ · Budget

Good to know

  • Standing room
  • Cicchetti
  • Francobolli sandwiches
  • Wine by the glass

Why we recommend it

Cantina Do Mori is often described as the oldest bacaro in Venice, with origins dating back to 1462. It was founded in the fifteenth century as a wine cellar and has been in constant use ever since; according to tradition, Giacomo Casanova was a regular customer. It sits in the tangle of lanes behind the Rialto Market in San Polo, with entrances on Calle dei Do Mori and Calle Galeazza, and its dark, low-ceilinged room, hung with copper pots, has an atmosphere few bars anywhere can match.

The bacaro is famous for its francobolli, literally stamps: tiny square sandwiches, generously filled, that are barely bigger than a postage stamp. Alongside these, the counter displays cicchetti such as meatballs, seafood and vegetables, and there is a long list of wines by the glass. The custom is to order an ombra, a small glass of wine, and a couple of bites, then move on to the next bar. The bar has no seating to speak of, so everyone stands at the long counter or by the walls.

Do Mori keeps market hours rather than late-night ones: it opens in the morning, around 8:00, and closes in the early evening, around 19:30, so it is a place for a mid-morning snack, a light lunch or an early aperitivo rather than a late night out. Check opening days before making a special trip. Late morning and early evening are the busiest moments, when traders, office workers and visitors crowd the counter.

Cantina Do Mori suits anyone who wants to see a traditional Venetian bacaro at its most authentic, from food lovers to history enthusiasts. It is very affordable, with prices per piece and per glass. It is less suited to large groups or anyone needing a seat. Allow 20 to 45 minutes, and combine it with other bacari nearby for a cicchetti crawl.

The bacaro is a two-minute walk from the Rialto Market and the Rialto Mercato vaporetto stop on Line 1. The Rialto Bridge is about five minutes away, and the lanes around Ruga dei Spezieri and Campo San Giacometto are full of other bars for a drink before or after.

Paying in cash for small orders is sensible in traditional bacari like this one.

Cantina Do Mori FAQs

How old is Cantina Do Mori?

It dates its origins to 1462 and is often described as the oldest bacaro in Venice.

What are francobolli?

Tiny square sandwiches, generously filled, named after postage stamps.

When is it open?

It keeps market hours, opening around 8:00 and closing around 19:30. Check opening days before visiting.

Can I sit down?

No, there is essentially no seating; customers stand at the counter.

Is it expensive?

No. You pay per piece and per glass, which keeps it affordable.

Where is it?

In San Polo near the Rialto Market, with entrances on Calle dei Do Mori and Calle Galeazza.

Did Casanova drink here?

According to tradition, Giacomo Casanova was a regular customer.

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