Thing to do
Piazzale Michelangelo
The 1869 hilltop terrace above San Niccolò with a bronze David and the classic panorama of the Duomo, the Arno bridges and the Palazzo Vecchio.
Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio
A neighbourhood market opened in 1873 east of Santa Croce, where Florentines buy fruit, vegetables, meat and cheese each morning.
At a glance
- Type
- Neighbourhood food market
- Area
- Sant'Ambrogio, Florence, Italy
Good to know
- Morning market
- Food counters
- Outdoor stalls
Why we recommend it
If the Mercato Centrale is the market most visitors see, Sant'Ambrogio is the one many Florentines actually use. It stands on Piazza Lorenzo Ghiberti in the Sant'Ambrogio district east of Santa Croce, in an iron and masonry hall inaugurated in 1873. Like the Mercato Centrale it was designed by Giuseppe Mengoni, but on a much smaller scale, and it was built on land that had been the garden of the former convent of Santa Verdiana as part of the city's 19th-century replanning.
The market works on two levels of activity. Outside, under the canopies around the main hall, are stalls of fruit and vegetables, flowers, household goods and clothing. Inside the hall are butchers, tripe and offal counters, cheese and salumi sellers, bakers, fishmongers and small shops selling dry goods, oil and wine. There are also counters where you can eat, including a lunchtime trattoria inside the hall that serves simple Florentine home cooking to market workers and residents at shared tables.
It is a morning market, open every morning except Sundays and public holidays, and it winds down around lunchtime, so plan to arrive by mid-morning. Prices are generally lower than in the more tourist-focused markets, and many stallholders speak at least a little English, though a few words of Italian go a long way. If you are self-catering, it is the best place in the centre to shop for seasonal produce; even if you are not, it is a good place to see what is in season and to pick up cheese, cured meats or olive oil to take home.
The atmosphere is local and unpolished, which is its appeal. It suits food lovers, cooks and anyone who wants to see everyday life in Florence away from the main monuments. Families are welcome, though the aisles are narrow and busy on Saturday mornings.
The market is about ten minutes' walk east of the Duomo and five minutes north-east of Santa Croce. The streets around it, especially Via de' Macci and Borgo la Croce, have bakeries, cafés and wine bars, and the Cibrèo restaurants and café are close by. Allow around an hour.
Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio FAQs
When is the Sant'Ambrogio market open?
It is a morning market, open every morning except Sundays and public holidays.
When was the market built?
The market hall was inaugurated in 1873, designed by Giuseppe Mengoni.
What can I buy there?
Fruit and vegetables, meat, cheese, cured meats, bread, fish, oil and wine, plus clothing and household goods at the outdoor stalls.
Can I eat at the market?
Yes, there are food counters and a lunchtime trattoria inside the hall.
Is it cheaper than the Mercato Centrale?
It is generally more local and less tourist-focused, with everyday prices for produce.
What is the best time to go?
Mid-morning on a weekday, before the stalls start packing up around lunchtime.
How do I get there?
Walk about ten minutes east from the Duomo or five minutes north-east from Santa Croce.