Wirtshaus in der Au

Wirtshaus in der Au sits just across the Isar from the old town in the Au, one of Munich's older working-class districts. Its motto is beer and dumplings since 1901, and the dumplings are the reason most people come. It is a classic neighbourhood Wirtshaus with a beer garden, popular with locals and with visitors who are prepared to walk ten minutes beyond the main sights.

Knödel, the Bavarian dumpling, are made in-house and appear in many forms: as the side for roast pork and other Bavarian classics, and as dishes in their own right. The kitchen is enthusiastic enough about the subject that it runs dumpling cooking courses, operates a mobile dumpling stand for events and has a separate dumpling business. Pretzels, beer and a bar complete the picture.

From Monday to Friday the tavern opens in the evening only, from 17:00 to 23:00. At weekends and on public holidays it opens from 10:00 to 23:00, so Saturday or Sunday lunch is the time to come if you want to eat in daylight or sit in the beer garden. The kitchen serves until 22:00 every day. Booking is a good idea for weekend evenings and for larger groups.

The restaurant suits couples, friends and families looking for a relaxed, traditional meal at moderate prices, and it is a good alternative to the large beer halls in the centre. Portions are generous, so arrive hungry or share. If you are interested in Bavarian cooking, a dumpling course is an unusual souvenir of a trip; details are on the restaurant's website. Because the Au is a residential district, an evening here feels more local than the big beer halls of the old town and shows a different side of the city.

To get there, walk from Isartor across the Ludwigsbrücke past the Deutsches Museum and continue south-east into the Au, which takes around 15 to 20 minutes. The tavern is close to Mariahilfplatz, where the Auer Dult, a traditional fair and market, is held three times a year. A walk along the Isar banks makes a pleasant way to arrive or to round off the meal.