Petaling Street (Chinatown)

Petaling Street, or Jalan Petaling, is the heart of Kuala Lumpur's original Chinatown and one of the oldest parts of the city. Its history goes back to the mining town of the nineteenth century, when Yap Ah Loy, the Hakka Kapitan or headman who did much to build early Kuala Lumpur, opened a tapioca mill here to grind flour from the tubers grown on his farms. Today the street is a heritage area and a lively market, and a walk along it is one of the essential experiences of any visit to the city.

In 2003 the street was given a facelift costing RM11 million, which added two Chinese-style arches at its ends and a green roof that covers the whole road, nicknamed the Green Dragon. The street is now fully pedestrianised, and the roof keeps off the worst of the sun and the rain. Market stalls line the street, run mainly by Chinese traders alongside Indian, Malay and Bangladeshi stallholders, and haggling is part of the experience. Check items carefully before you pay.

Food is the other big draw. Petaling Street and the lanes around it are known for Chinese-Malaysian classics such as Hokkien mee, curry noodles, asam laksa and Hainanese chicken rice, along with ikan bakar, grilled fish. Wanton noodles from Koon Kee Too are among the long-standing favourites. The area comes alive in the evening, when it is cooler and the stalls and eateries are at their busiest, but it is also pleasant to explore in the morning, before the heat and the crowds build.

Allow at least two hours to walk the street and its surroundings. Just off it, Kwai Chai Hong, a restored back lane on Lorong Panggung, has six interactive murals depicting old Chinatown life. The Sri Mahamariamman Temple stands on nearby Jalan Tun H.S. Lee, and Central Market and Masjid Jamek are within walking distance, so Chinatown makes an easy half-day on foot. Keep an eye on bags and phones in the crowds, as in any busy market.

Several stations are within walking distance, including Pasar Seni on the LRT and MRT, Plaza Rakyat on the LRT, Masjid Jamek on the LRT and Maharajalela on the monorail. Pasar Seni is the most convenient for most visitors and is also linked to the KTM station at Kuala Lumpur.