Bar
Shinjuku Golden Gai
A tight grid of narrow lanes in Kabukicho holding around 300 tiny bars, many seating only a handful of drinkers, each with its own theme.
A small, dark Ebisu cocktail bar opened in 2010, known for herbal drinks, absinthe and cocktails built around unusual ingredients and stories.
Good to know
Bar Trench opened in 2010 as a younger sibling to Bar Tram, and it shares that bar's love of herbal spirits, absinthe and cocktails built around unusual ingredients and the stories behind them. The room is small and dimly lit, with dark wood and old bottles, and it has the feel of a hidden hideout on an Ebisu back street. The name refers to a military trench: a place to regroup before moving forward, which suits its role as a stop in the middle of an evening out.
The drinks list focuses on cocktails made with herbal liqueurs, bitters, absinthe and house infusions, often reviving or reinterpreting recipes from the early twentieth century, when absinthe and aromatic spirits were at the height of fashion. The bartenders put great care into the quality of their ingredients and into explaining the background to each drink. Let them know which flavours you enjoy, whether bitter, herbal, fruity or spirit-forward, and they will suggest something from the house list or adapt a classic for you.
The bar is open every day from 18:00 until 02:00 and has no regular closing day. It does not take reservations, so arrive early in the evening if you want a seat, or be prepared to wait or return later. Seating is limited, so small groups of two or three work best. The interior is non-smoking, but there is a private smoking area just outside. The same team runs Bar Tram, Café Tram, Bar Trench Annex and Bar Triad nearby, so there are other options if Trench is full.
It suits cocktail enthusiasts, couples and solo drinkers who enjoy a quiet, knowledgeable bar rather than a loud night out. Prices are in line with other serious cocktail bars in Tokyo. Absinthe can be strong, so pace yourself and ask the bartenders for advice if you have not tried it before.
The bar is in the DIS Building, unit 102, at 1-5-8 Ebisu-Nishi in Shibuya-ku, a short walk from the west exit of Ebisu Station on the JR Yamanote Line and the Hibiya Line. Dinner at one of the many restaurants around the station, followed by a drink here, is an easy evening plan, and AFURI's late-opening ramen shop is close by for a final bowl.
No, the bar does not take reservations.
Every day from 18:00 to 02:00, with no regular closing day.
Cocktails built around herbal liqueurs, absinthe and unusual ingredients.
In 2010.
The interior is non-smoking; there is a smoking area just outside.
The same team runs Bar Tram, Bar Trench Annex and Bar Triad nearby.
Seating is limited, so groups of two or three work best.
A short walk from the west exit of Ebisu Station.
Hotel
A serene luxury hotel on the top floors of Otemachi Tower, pairing minimalist Japanese design with a spa, 30-metre pool and city views.
Tour operator
A Tokyo-registered travel agency founded in 2016, running guided food and culture tours such as a Shinjuku and Golden Gai evening food walk.
Café
A Jimbocho roastery-café serving light-roasted, single-origin specialty coffee designed to bring out the character of each origin.
Restaurant
Chef Yoshihiro Narisawa's acclaimed Aoyama restaurant, serving a seasonal tasting menu built around Japanese ingredients, forests and the farming landscape.