Attraction
Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary
A village-owned forest of about ten hectares at the southern end of central Ubud, home to more than a thousand long-tailed macaques and three 14th-century temples.
Gunung Kawi
An 11th-century funerary complex at Tampaksiring where ten shrines about seven metres high are carved into cliff faces on both banks of the Pakerisan River.
At a glance
- Type
- Rock-cut royal tombs and temple
- Area
- Tampaksiring, Ubud, Indonesia
Good to know
- Riverside setting
- Hundreds of steps
- Active temple
Why we recommend it
Gunung Kawi, sometimes called the Valley of the Balinese Kings, is one of the most striking ancient sites in Bali. It lies near Tampaksiring in a valley cut by the Pakerisan River. Here, in the 11th century, ten candi, or shrine facades, were carved directly into the rock walls of the gorge, each set in a sheltered niche about seven metres high.
The shrines are arranged in two groups on opposite banks of the river. The most widely held theory is that the complex honours King Anak Wungsu of the Udayana dynasty and members of his family. One explanation links the five shrines on the east bank to King Udayana, Queen Mahendradatta and their sons Airlangga, Anak Wungsu and Marakata, with the shrines on the west bank dedicated to the king's lesser queens or concubines. A legible inscription above the northern shrine on the east bank reads "Haji Lumahing Jalu", which has been interpreted as recording that the king made a temple here.
Despite the name, no human remains or ashes have been found here, so the site is regarded as a memorial rather than a mausoleum. Their style recalls the Singhasari and Majapahit architecture of Java. Beside the main group, a sanctuary carved into the rock is thought to have been a monastic hermitage, probably older than the shrines, and a further carved structure at the southern end of the gorge has an unknown purpose. Within the complex, Pura Puncak is dedicated to Vishnu and Lakshmi, and farmers pray there for a good harvest. The setting is a large part of the appeal, with the shrines framed by greenery and the river running between them. The complex is still a place of worship, and during the temple's piodalan, its anniversary celebration, it is elaborately decorated.
Reaching the site means descending hundreds of steps into the valley, so allow time and energy for the climb back up and bring water. The stairway makes the site difficult for visitors with limited mobility. As it is an active religious site, dress modestly and follow any instructions given at the entrance. Allow about an hour to an hour and a half.
Gunung Kawi is about half a mile from Tirta Empul, whose spring is the source of the same river, and the two are usually visited together. The Tegallalang rice terraces are a short distance away, so the three make an easy half-day or full-day loop from Ubud with a driver.
Gunung Kawi FAQs
What is Gunung Kawi?
It is an 11th-century memorial complex of shrine facades carved into the cliffs on both sides of the Pakerisan River.
Who do the shrines commemorate?
They are thought to honour King Anak Wungsu of the Udayana dynasty and members of his family and court.
How tall are the shrines?
Each is carved into a sheltered niche about seven metres high.
Where is it?
It is near Tampaksiring, about half a mile from Tirta Empul.
Is it a hard walk?
Yes. The site is reached by descending hundreds of steps into the valley, so expect a long climb back up.
When is it most colourful?
During the temple's piodalan anniversary celebration, when the complex is elaborately decorated.
How long should I allow?
About an hour to an hour and a half including the stairs.
What can I combine it with?
Tirta Empul is nearby on the same river, and the Tegallalang rice terraces are a short distance away.