Ho Lee Fook

Ho Lee Fook is a modern Cantonese restaurant on Elgin Street in Central. Its name and decor are deliberately playful, with gilded lucky cats, mahjong tiles, pop art and red Chinese floral motifs, and a soundtrack of 1980s Canto-pop. It feels more like a party than a formal dining room, which is exactly the point.

The open kitchen on the ground floor is a highlight, and you can watch the cooks working the woks as you arrive. The cooking is creative Cantonese with bold flavours and plenty of wok hei, the smoky breath of a very hot wok. The Michelin Guide recommends the crispy three-yellow chicken with sand ginger dip and the wok-fried dishes in general. Some dishes need to be ordered in advance, so check when you book if there is something specific you want to try.

Ho Lee Fook is open for dinner only, from 6pm to 10.30pm on Sunday to Wednesday and until 11.30pm on Thursday to Saturday. Booking ahead is wise, especially at weekends. Prices are moderate to high for Cantonese food, and dishes are designed for sharing, so a group of four can order a good spread. Credit cards are accepted, and the Michelin Guide lists it as family friendly.

It suits groups of friends, couples on a fun night out and visitors who want Cantonese flavours in a more relaxed, contemporary setting than a traditional banquet hall. The music and energy mean it is not the place for a quiet conversation. Allow around two hours for dinner, and order in waves so that wok dishes reach the table hot.

Look at the restaurant's website for current dishes before booking if you have particular favourites in mind, and mention any pre-order requests when you reserve.

Elgin Street is a short walk from several places in this guide. Tai Kwun and Hollywood Road are a few minutes downhill, and Kau Kee on Gough Street is a short stroll to the west, though it closes in the evening at 10.30pm and on Sundays. The bars of Central are close by if you want a drink after dinner, and the restaurant's website has the latest menus and booking details.