Gorilla Trekking in Volcanoes National Park

Tracking mountain gorillas in Volcanoes National Park is the experience that brings many travellers to Rwanda, and Kigali is the usual starting point. Treks begin at the park headquarters in Kinigi, near Musanze, where visitors gather at 7am for a briefing on the rules before being assigned to a gorilla family according to their fitness level.

According to Visit Rwanda, twelve gorilla families in the park are fully habituated for tourism, with a few more habituated only for research. Eight permits are issued per family per day, and time with the gorillas is strictly limited to one hour. The minimum age is 15. These rules protect the gorillas from stress and disease, so expect rangers to enforce distances and behaviour closely.

Permits must be booked in advance, either online through the government's Irembo platform or through a licensed tour operator or guide; the Rwanda Development Board also runs a booking portal. Because numbers are capped, permits can sell out, so book as early as you can and plan the rest of your trip around your trekking date.

The trek itself can take anywhere from about 30 minutes to four hours or more each way, at altitudes of roughly 2,500 to 4,000 metres, through forest that can be steep and muddy, with stinging nettles along the way. Wear solid walking shoes with gaiters and sturdy clothing, bring gardening or leather gloves for grabbing vegetation, and carry a light waterproof jacket. Porters can be hired at the start to carry your bag and camera and help you on difficult sections.

Fitness matters more than experience. Rangers try to match each group to a family that suits its pace, so be honest at the briefing about how far and how steeply you are comfortable walking. Once you reach the gorillas, keep your voice low, follow the rangers' instructions on distance and photography; the hour passes quickly, and most people remember it for a long time.

Because the briefing is at 7am in Kinigi, doing the trek as a day trip from Kigali means leaving in the very early hours of the morning and returning in the evening. Many travellers prefer to stay a night or two in Musanze or near the park instead. Either way, many visitors use a licensed operator from Kigali to handle permits and transport, and Akagera National Park on another day makes a good contrast for a wider wildlife trip.