Amala Shitta

Amala Shitta is a buka, the simple, informal eating house where Lagosians go for home-style Yoruba food, and it is one of the most famous in the city. It is named after its location in Shitta, a neighbourhood of Surulere on the Lagos mainland, and it is regularly listed by Nigerian newspapers as the place to eat amala in Lagos. Hundreds of people come every day from across the city.

Amala is a dark, soft swallow made from yam flour, and Amala Shitta serves it in the classic way: with ewedu, a smooth, slippery soup made from jute leaves, gbegiri, a bean soup, and obe ata or obe elepo, the red pepper stew. Mixing the soups together is known as abula. You then choose your meat from a long list that includes goat meat, beef and cow tripe, among others, and the kitchen is known for consistent quality and reliable taste.

Do not expect comfort or decor. A buka is about the food rather than the surroundings, and prices are low. Eat with your hand, using a small piece of amala to scoop the soup, and wash your hands before and after. Bring cash in small notes and go with a local friend or guide the first time, as ordering at a busy buka can feel overwhelming.

It suits adventurous eaters, food lovers who want to taste everyday Lagos and anyone curious about Yoruba cooking. Go at lunchtime for the freshest food and the liveliest atmosphere, but avoid the peak rush if you want a seat. Spice levels can be high, so ask for less pepper if needed.

If you are not used to eating with your hands, it is fine to ask for a spoon. Carry tissues or wet wipes, keep your belongings close in the crowd and plan a short visit rather than a long, leisurely meal.

Rabiatu Thomson Crescent is in the Shitta area of Surulere. Traffic from Victoria Island or Ikoyi can be slow, so use a ride-hailing car outside rush hour. Surulere has several other well-known bukas, and the Wole Soyinka Centre for Culture and the Creative Arts at Iganmu is in the same part of the mainland.