Makola Market

Makola Market is the commercial engine of central Accra and the most intense, absorbing shopping experience in the city. The first market building went up in 1924, and over the following decades Makola became famous across West Africa as a place dominated by women traders. In August 1979 the original market was demolished under the military government of the day, but trading never stopped, and today the market and its surrounding streets form a sprawling district of stalls, stores and pavement vendors.

Almost anything can be found here. Produce sellers stack tomatoes, peppers, yams, plantains and smoked fish, while other sections deal in imported and manufactured foods, clothing, shoes, tools, medicines, cooking pots and school supplies. For visitors, the most rewarding stalls are usually those selling printed fabrics and locally made beaded jewellery, both of which make good souvenirs. Even if you buy little, walking through the market is the best way to see the everyday trade that keeps the city running.

Makola suits curious travellers who are comfortable in crowds and heat. It is not a relaxed browsing experience: lanes are narrow and busy, porters carry heavy loads on their heads and traffic presses in on the edges. Families with small children may find it overwhelming. Going with a local guide or as part of a walking tour helps you find the fabric and bead sections quickly, learn how to bargain and avoid getting lost.

Go in the morning on a weekday, when the market is lively but the midday heat has not yet built up. Bargaining is expected, so agree a price before you buy. Carry small notes in cedis, keep your phone and wallet secure and out of sight, and wear closed shoes because the ground can be uneven or wet. Ask before photographing traders, as many prefer not to be photographed.

The market is in Accra Central, a short walk or taxi ride from the Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park and within easy reach of Jamestown. Traffic in the area is heavy for much of the day, so arrange to be dropped off and picked up rather than trying to park.