Marsam Hotel

The Marsam describes itself as the oldest rest house on Luxor's West Bank. It was formerly known as the old Sheikh Ali Hotel. It sits within walking distance of most of the sites of the Theban necropolis, away from the traffic and from the standard tourist circuits.

There are 36 rooms, of which 20 have private bathrooms and air conditioning, so check which type you are booking. Breakfast is included. The style is simple and traditional rather than luxurious, and the appeal lies in the setting and the atmosphere rather than in hotel facilities.

The garden café and restaurant is known for its relaxed atmosphere and fresh food. Much of the produce is organic and grown in the hotel's own garden, with the rest bought from local markets, and the hotel states that it does not use frozen or convenience food. It is a pleasant place to sit in the shade after a morning at the temples, and it also attracts visitors who are not staying at the hotel.

The Marsam suits budget travellers, independent explorers, students and anyone who values location and history over modern amenities. Groups of up to 30 people can be accommodated. The hotel can organise trips around Luxor by car, bus, four-by-four, camel or on a 150-year-old dahabiya, a traditional Nile sailing boat.

Because the Marsam is on the West Bank, you can walk or cycle to several monuments and be at them early, but getting to the East Bank for dinner means a taxi to the ferry or the bridge. Bring a torch for evening walks, as village lanes are not always well lit. Contact the hotel through its website to book, especially in the busy winter season when rooms with private bathrooms go quickly.

If you are deciding between the two banks, the Marsam represents the West Bank at its most traditional: quiet nights, early starts and a short walk to the monuments. Come with modest expectations of comfort and you are likely to leave with a strong sense of place. In the hotter months, plan sightseeing for the first hours of the day and rest in the shaded garden through the afternoon, as many local people do.