New Oum Koulsoum Coffee Shop

The New Oum Koulsoum Coffee Shop sits in the heart of Luxor's souq on the East Bank and is a classic place to stop while exploring the market lanes. Named after Umm Kulthum, the great Egyptian singer whose voice still drifts from cafés across the country, it combines the atmosphere of a traditional ahwa, or coffee house, with a few modern comforts.

The drinks menu covers both old and new. You can order Egyptian tea and coffee, espresso-style coffee made with a capsule machine, and fresh fruit juices, which are a welcome way to cool down in the souq. Shisha is a big part of the experience, with flavoured tobacco smoked from water pipes at outdoor tables, and it is a good place to try it if you are curious.

In the hotter months, misting machines spray a fine cooling vapour over the seating area, which makes a real difference on a summer afternoon. The tables are set where you can watch the life of the souq go by, with traders and shoppers passing, and it is a pleasant spot to rest between rounds of bargaining for spices, scarves and souvenirs.

The coffee shop suits travellers who want a taste of local café culture, couples, solo visitors and small groups. Families are welcome, though the shisha smoke may not suit everyone. Prices are modest, but agree them before ordering if they are not shown, as is sensible in any busy market area.

The souq runs close to Luxor Temple and Karnak Temple Street, so it is easy to combine a drink here with a visit to the temple, dinner at Sofra or Al-Sahaby Lane, or a walk to the Corniche. Evenings are the liveliest time in the market, when the heat has eased. Opening hours are not published, and the exact location within the souq can be hard to describe, so ask locally for directions.

Shisha is smoked slowly, so a pipe can easily last half an hour or more, and it is normal to linger. If you prefer not to smoke, a fresh juice or a glass of tea is just as much part of the experience, and the people-watching is free.