Restaurant
Le Lagon 1
Seafood restaurant built on stilts over the sea in 1956, with views of Gorée and a nautical dining room, still run by the founding Calendini family.
Long-running family restaurant in the Plateau serving large plates of Senegalese and Cape Verdean food, including thiéboudienne, mafé and caldou.
Good to know
Chez Loutcha is a Dakar institution and one of the best places in the city centre to try classic Senegalese cooking without spending much. The family-run restaurant, of Cape Verdean origin, has been a local favourite since the 1960s, and it is busy every lunchtime with diners who come for its generous plates.
The menu covers the national repertoire. Thiéboudienne, the rice and fish dish that is Senegal's best-loved meal, is the one to order, ideally with plenty of xooñ, the crisp rice from the bottom of the pot. Other favourites include mafé, a meat stew in peanut sauce; soupe kandja, an okra stew made with red palm oil; dibi, grilled mutton; and caldou, a lighter fish dish served with a sharp relish. Wash it down with bissap, the deep red hibiscus drink. Thiéboudienne, pronounced roughly 'cheb-oo-jen', means fish with rice in Wolof: the fish, usually grouper, is stuffed with a garlic and herb paste called rof and cooked with vegetables and tamarind before the rice absorbs the sauce. Cape Verdean dishes appear alongside the Senegalese ones, reflecting the family's roots.
The dining room is simple and bright, with high ceilings, plenty of windows, patterned tiles and colourful tablecloths. It is not a place for a long, leisurely evening so much as for a satisfying and good-value meal. Portions are large, so consider sharing if you want to try several dishes.
Arrival Guides lists opening from Monday to Saturday for lunch and dinner, closed on Sundays, but call ahead to confirm, especially on public holidays. Arrive before the main lunch rush around 13:00 if you want a table without waiting. It suits solo travellers, families and anyone on a budget, and is a good first introduction to Senegalese food for visitors.
Rue Moussé Diop is in the Plateau, near the Institut Français, and within walking distance of Place de l'Indépendance and the Musée Théodore Monod d'Art Africain. That makes Chez Loutcha a convenient lunch stop during a day of sightseeing in the city centre, and the IFAN museum or the garden café at the Institut Français are good places to continue afterwards.
Senegalese and Cape Verdean dishes such as thiéboudienne, mafé, soupe kandja, dibi and caldou.
No, it is known for generous portions at affordable prices.
Thiéboudienne, with a glass of bissap, is the classic choice.
Arrival Guides lists it as closed on Sundays; call ahead to check.
At lunchtime, so arrive before 13:00 to avoid waiting.
At 101 Rue Moussé Diop in the Plateau, near the Institut Français.
It has been a local favourite since the 1960s.
Yes, its menu covers many of the country's classic dishes.
Tour operator
Dakar travel agency founded in 1996 that runs city tours, excursions to Gorée, Lac Rose and Bandia, and tailor-made circuits across Senegal.
Attraction
Small car-free island off Dakar, inscribed by UNESCO in 1978 as a place of memory of the Atlantic slave trade, with museums, forts and colonial-era houses.
Thing to do
Small island a few minutes by pirogue from Ngor beach, with small beaches, seafood restaurants and well-known surf breaks on Dakar's northern tip.
Café
Bright café and concept store in Mermoz with Senegalese twists on burgers and pasta, a co-working space and a shop of local designers' products.