Uganda Martyrs Basilica, Namugongo

Namugongo, about 17.5 km by road north-east of central Kampala, is the most important pilgrimage site in Uganda. In 1886 Kabaka Mwanga II of Buganda ordered the execution of young converts at his court who refused to give up Christianity, and many were burned alive here. Among them were Saints Charles Lwanga and Kizito. The official Visit Kampala listing records 22 Catholic and 23 Anglican martyrs in total. Pope Paul VI canonised the Catholic martyrs on 18 October 1964. Joshua Serufusa-Zake, a local chief in Kira, was the first to mark the place of execution, putting up a structure where shrines were later built.

The Catholic basilica was begun in 1965 and completed in 1968, and it was raised to the rank of minor basilica in 1993. It is run by the Archdiocese of Kampala. Pope Francis celebrated Mass outside it on 28 November 2015. The grounds also take in the Martyrs' Lake, a museum and memorial grounds, and the site of the so-called torture tree, and guided pilgrim tours visit each of them with time for reflection. A separate Anglican shrine and museum stands nearby, and guides cover both stories.

The great event of the year is Uganda Martyrs Day on 3 June, a public holiday. Hundreds of thousands of pilgrims gather, many having walked for days from across Uganda and neighbouring countries, and a huge open-air Mass is held by the lake. It is a remarkable sight, but roads and accommodation fill up in the days before, so if you want a quieter visit choose another time of year.

For most visitors an hour or two is enough to walk round the basilica, the lake and the museum. Services are held throughout the year, so be quiet and respectful inside the church, dress modestly and ask before photographing worshippers. There is little shade around the lake at midday, so mornings and late afternoons are more comfortable.

Namugongo lies beyond Kireka and Kira, and traffic on the roads out of Kampala can be heavy at rush hour. A taxi or private car is easiest; boda bodas also make the trip. Combine it with the Baha'i Temple on Kikaaya Hill or Ndere Cultural Centre in Ntinda, both on the north-eastern side of the city.