Thing to do
Copacabana Beach
A 4-kilometre curve of white sand along Avenida Atlântica, framed by Roberto Burle Marx's wave-patterned promenade and two historic forts.
A rocky point between Ipanema and Copacabana where crowds gather to applaud the sunset over the sea, and one of Rio's best-known surf breaks.
Good to know
Arpoador is the small rocky peninsula that separates Ipanema from Copacabana, with parts of its territory in each neighbourhood. Its name means the harpoon thrower. The great rock at its tip, the Pedra do Arpoador, is open to the public, with walkways that help visitors climb it, and it has become one of the city's favourite places to watch the end of the day.
The draw is the sunset. Most of Brazil's coast faces east, but from Arpoador, around midsummer, the sun can be seen setting over the sea, a rare sight on this coast. Crowds gather on the rock and cheer when it finally disappears. According to Portuguese Wikipedia, the custom of applauding the sunset began in the summer of 1968 to 1969, started by the journalist Carlos Leonam, and was later popularised by the advertiser Roberto Duailibi in a television advert for sunscreen.
Arpoador is also one of the best city surf spots in Rio. The rock creates stable left-hand breakers that can reach two to three metres, but the take-off zone is small, the line-up is crowded and there is a strong rip current, so it is a spot for experienced surfers. Beginners are better off watching from the rocks or the beach.
The views are good at any time of day. From the rock you look west along Ipanema to Leblon and Dois Irmãos, and the beach below, at the eastern end of Ipanema, is the place where the surfers paddle out. Cafés operate at Arpoador, so it is easy to stop for a drink before or after the sunset.
Arpoador also marks the start of Ipanema Beach, which runs for about 2.6 kilometres from here to the canal at Leblon. On the sand below the rock you will see the full range of Rio beach sports, from surfing and skimboarding to volleyball, frescobol and futevôlei, and the beach's lifeguard posts, including the well-known Posto 9, stretch away to the west.
Arpoador sits at the meeting point of Ipanema and Copacabana, so it works as a natural end to a beach walk. Leblon is about four kilometres away along the seafront, and the Copacabana Fort lies on the other side of the point. Combine it with an afternoon on Ipanema Beach, or with dinner afterwards in Ipanema or Copacabana.
On the rocky point between Ipanema and Copacabana, with parts in each neighbourhood.
The custom began in the summer of 1968 to 1969, started by the journalist Carlos Leonam, and crowds still cheer as the sun sets.
Around midsummer the sun sets over the sea, which is rare on Brazil's east-facing coast.
Yes. The rock is open to the public, with walkways to help visitors climb it.
It is one of Rio's best city surf spots, but the small take-off zone, crowds and strong rip current suit experienced surfers.
Yes. It is a public space.
Arpoador means the harpoon thrower.
About four kilometres along the seafront.
Attraction
The Art Deco statue of Christ on the summit of Corcovado, dedicated in 1931 and reached by a rack railway that has run since 1884.
Café
A Belle Époque café founded in 1894, with Antwerp mirrors, carved furniture and a stained-glass skylight above its upstairs tea room.
Hotel
A symbol of Rio, opened facing Copacabana Beach in 1923, with a half-Olympic pool, the Michelin-starred Mee and a guest list of legends.
Tour operator
A Rio food tour company running since 2011, with a five-hour daytime tasting walk, an evening bar and samba tour and a Brazilian wine experience.