Thing to do
Copacabana Beach
A 4-kilometre curve of white sand along Avenida Atlântica, framed by Roberto Burle Marx's wave-patterned promenade and two historic forts.
A 2.6-kilometre beach between Arpoador and Leblon, celebrated in The Girl from Ipanema and framed by the twin peaks of Dois Irmãos.
Good to know
Ipanema Beach stretches for about 2.6 kilometres between the rocky point of Arpoador and the canal that separates Ipanema from Leblon, with the twin peaks of Dois Irmãos rising at its western end. The view of those mountains across the sand is one of the classic postcard images of Rio de Janeiro.
The name comes from the Tupi language and is usually translated as bad or worthless water. The neighbourhood behind the beach was named after José Antônio Moreira Filho, the second Baron of Ipanema, who created the first urban settlement here in 1883. Bossa nova made the beach famous across the world: The Girl from Ipanema was written in 1962, with music by Antônio Carlos Jobim and Portuguese lyrics by Vinicius de Moraes, and the song is said to have been created at the bar now called Garota de Ipanema.
Like Copacabana, the beach is divided by lifeguard posts, and each stretch has its own crowd. Posto 9 is the best-known, long associated with counter-culture and still popular with young people, while Posto 10 lies further west towards Leblon. The sand is a sports ground as much as a place to lie down: look out for volleyball, football, frescobol, skimboarding, surfing and futevôlei, the local mix of football and volleyball played over a net.
On Sundays the road nearest the beach is closed to traffic, and the same day brings the Feira Hippie, a market founded by hippies in 1968 that sells crafts and paintings and has more than 700 stalls. During Carnival the Banda de Ipanema parade can draw up to 50,000 people. In 2008 the Travel Channel named Ipanema the sexiest beach in the world.
Water quality can be affected by pollution from the marine outfall pipe, so check local bulletins before swimming, and swim near a lifeguard post. At the eastern end, the Pedra do Arpoador is the place to watch the sun go down, a habit that began here in the summer of 1968 to 1969 when the journalist Carlos Leonam started the custom of applauding the sunset.
Ipanema suits everyone from families to solo travellers, and the beachfront is lined with hotels, including the Fasano and the Janeiro listed in this guide. A walk along the full length of the sand, from the Arpoador rocks to the canal at Leblon, takes in every posto and the changing crowd along the way.
About 2.6 kilometres, from Arpoador to the canal at Leblon.
The best-known stretch of the beach, long associated with counter-culture and popular with young people.
Every Sunday; the market dates from 1968 and has more than 700 stalls of crafts and paintings.
The song by Tom Jobim and Vinicius de Moraes, from 1962, is said to have been created at the bar now called Garota de Ipanema.
Volleyball, football, frescobol, surfing, skimboarding and futevôlei.
Yes. The road nearest the beach closes to traffic on Sundays.
Water quality can be affected by the marine outfall pipe, so check local bulletins and swim near a lifeguard.
The Pedra do Arpoador at the eastern end of the beach.
Attraction
The Art Deco statue of Christ on the summit of Corcovado, dedicated in 1931 and reached by a rack railway that has run since 1884.
Café
A Belle Époque café founded in 1894, with Antwerp mirrors, carved furniture and a stained-glass skylight above its upstairs tea room.
Hotel
A symbol of Rio, opened facing Copacabana Beach in 1923, with a half-Olympic pool, the Michelin-starred Mee and a guest list of legends.
Tour operator
A Rio food tour company running since 2011, with a five-hour daytime tasting walk, an evening bar and samba tour and a Brazilian wine experience.