Trajinera ride from Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas, Xochimilco

Xochimilco, in the south-east of Mexico City, is what remains of the network of lakes and canals on which the Aztec capital was built. Around 170 kilometres of canals survive, threading between chinampas, the artificial farming plots that still produce flowers and vegetables. The area was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987, and a slow ride in a trajinera, the colourful, gondola-like boat poled along the water, is one of the classic experiences of the city.

Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas is a good place to start. It is one of the landings on the Xochimilco tourist board's traditional route, with around 220 boats, and according to the city's tourism office it is open every day from 6:00 to 22:00. The tourism office describes the route as a way to take in many of the area's classic sights, sounds and foods. On the water you will pass chinampas used for farming and greenhouses, and other boats carrying mariachi musicians and parties. Guides vary from boat to boat, and some give detailed explanations of the canals.

Longer trips are possible. The well-known Isla de las Muñecas, the island hung with dolls, lies on the canals around an hour by boat from a landing, and from Nativitas an ecological tour of five to six hours is offered. A lunch tour is also available, with food charged separately. The tourism office does not publish fares, so agree the route, duration and price before you set off; it also notes that rules for boats and canal use have become stricter in recent years, though small groups should have no difficulty.

Xochimilco is also home to the axolotl, the endangered salamander-like amphibian native to these waters, and to the Xochimilco Ecological Reserve, a park of more than 200 hectares with a bike path and flower market. Allow at least half a day including travel from the centre.

On land, Nuevo Nativitas has parking, a large artisan market, small restaurants and stalls selling plants and flowers, and the Madreselva plant market is a few hundred metres away. Access is from Avenida Hermenegildo Galeana. The tourism office points out that this landing is not the closest one to the Xochimilco light rail station, which is the fastest public transport route to the canals, so check your route before you travel.