Thing to do
Phare, The Cambodian Circus
A nightly hour-long show of circus, theatre, music and dance by graduates of a Cambodian arts school, staged in a big top on Siem Reap's Ring…
A sacred plateau about 48 km north of Siem Reap with waterfalls, a giant reclining Buddha and riverbed carvings, where King Jayavarman II proclaimed independence in 802.
Good to know
Phnom Kulen is a classic day trip into the countryside from Siem Reap, and it combines history, religion and a cool dip in a river. The mountain lies about 48 kilometres north of town and forms a long sandstone plateau averaging about 400 metres in height, with its highest point around 500 metres. It is protected as Phnom Kulen National Park.
The plateau holds a special place in Cambodian history. In the year 802 King Jayavarman II proclaimed independence from Java here, and a royal linga cult was established on the mountain soon afterwards. In the Angkor period the mountain was known as Mahendraparvata, the mountain of the great Indra, and it remains a holy site visited by Hindu and Buddhist pilgrims.
There are three main things to see. Along the river, carvings of more than 1,000 small lingas have been etched into the sandstone riverbed, a few centimetres under the flowing water, which is regarded as holy. At the 16th-century monastery of Preah Ang Thom, a reclining Buddha around eight metres high is the largest in the country. Finally there are the waterfalls. The first fall is only four to five metres high but 20 to 25 metres wide, while the second, about 15 to 20 metres high, drops into a larger pool that is popular for swimming. Bring swimwear, a towel and modest cover-up clothes for the religious sites.
The easiest way up the mountain is by car, and most visitors hire a driver or join a day tour from Siem Reap, often combining the trip with Banteay Srei on the way back. Phnom Kulen is not among the sites sold by the Angkor Enterprise ticket office, so check the current entry arrangements with your driver or tour operator before you set off. Allow a full day including the drive.
The waterfalls are fullest in and just after the rainy season, while in the dry months the flow can be much lighter. Weekends and public holidays can be busier, so go on a weekday if you prefer peace. The trip suits families and active travellers, though the steps to the reclining Buddha and the paths down to the falls involve some uneven ground.
It lies about 48 km north of Siem Reap, so allow a full day for the trip.
It is not among the sites sold by Angkor Enterprise, so check the current entry arrangements with your driver or tour operator.
Yes, the pool below the second waterfall is a popular swimming spot.
A 16th-century Buddhist monastery on the mountain with the largest reclining Buddha in Cambodia, about 8 metres high.
King Jayavarman II proclaimed independence from Java here in 802, and the mountain remains a holy site for pilgrims.
Swimwear, a towel, water, sturdy footwear and clothes that cover shoulders and knees for the religious sites.
During and just after the rainy season, when the river carries the most water.
Many visitors combine it with Banteay Srei on the way back to Siem Reap.
Attraction
Suryavarman II's 12th-century temple to Vishnu, the largest religious monument in the world and the centrepiece of the Angkor World Heritage Site.
Restaurant
Chef Joannes Riviere's dinner-only restaurant in a traditional wooden house, serving regularly changing eight-course tasting menus of seasonal Cambodian produce.
Café
A speciality coffee café open since late 2014, blending Australian café culture with Cambodian touches, known for espresso, cold drip and simple breakfasts.
Bar
An intimate cocktail lounge on Street 26 styled after 1930s Shanghai, serving martinis, a Raffles-recipe Singapore Sling and home-style Chinese dishes.