Attraction
Angkor Wat
Suryavarman II's 12th-century temple to Vishnu, the largest religious monument in the world and the centrepiece of the Angkor World Heritage Site.
A small 10th-century temple to Shiva, about 25 km north-east of the main Angkor group, carved in pink-red sandstone with exceptionally fine decoration.
Good to know
Banteay Srei is small, but many visitors leave it saying it was their favourite temple. It was consecrated on 22 April 967 and dedicated to Shiva, and it is the only major Angkor temple that was not built by a king. Its construction is credited to courtiers, among them the scholar Yajnavaraha, an adviser to King Rajendravarman II and tutor to the future Jayavarman V. Its original name was Tribhuvanamaheshvara, after the linga at its centre, and it was surrounded by a town called Isvarapura.
The temple is built largely of hard red sandstone, and the decoration is astonishingly crisp and deep. The buildings are unusually small for Angkor, so you are close to the detail at all times. Look for the large carved pediments, an innovation in Khmer architecture, which tell stories from Hindu mythology. One of the most celebrated shows the demon Ravana shaking Mount Kailasa while Shiva and Parvati sit calmly above him. Delicate devatas and guardian figures stand in the niches of the central towers.
The temple has an eventful modern history. It was rediscovered in 1914, and in 1923 the young French writer Andre Malraux removed four devatas; he was arrested soon afterwards and the figures were returned. In the 1930s Banteay Srei became one of the first temples at Angkor restored by anastylosis, the method of rebuilding a monument from its original stones. A joint Cambodian-Swiss conservation project later installed drainage between 2000 and 2003.
Banteay Srei lies about 25 kilometres north-east of the main temple group, near the hill of Phnom Dei, so it takes a separate trip by tuk-tuk or car. It is covered by the Angkor Pass, and the official Angkor Enterprise website lists it as open from 7:30am to 5:30pm. The stone glows warmest in early morning or late afternoon light. Since the site is compact, an hour is usually enough, though it can feel crowded when tour groups arrive together.
Banteay Srei is often combined on the same trip with Kbal Spean, which has its own entry ticket, or with Phnom Kulen. It suits anyone interested in art and craftsmanship, and it is less tiring than the larger temples, which makes it a good choice for families.
It lies about 25 km north-east of the main Angkor temple group, so plan on a separate trip by tuk-tuk or car.
The official Angkor Enterprise website lists Banteay Srei as open from 7:30am to 5:30pm.
Yes, it is one of the temples included in the Angkor Pass.
It is built mostly of hard red sandstone, which allowed carvers to produce very fine, deep decoration.
It was consecrated in 967 and built not by a king but by courtiers including the scholar Yajnavaraha.
About an hour on site, plus travel time from Siem Reap.
Many visitors pair it with Kbal Spean, which has a separate ticket, or with Phnom Kulen.
Early morning or late afternoon, when the light brings out the colour of the stone and there are often fewer groups.
Restaurant
Chef Joannes Riviere's dinner-only restaurant in a traditional wooden house, serving regularly changing eight-course tasting menus of seasonal Cambodian produce.
Café
A speciality coffee café open since late 2014, blending Australian café culture with Cambodian touches, known for espresso, cold drip and simple breakfasts.
Bar
An intimate cocktail lounge on Street 26 styled after 1930s Shanghai, serving martinis, a Raffles-recipe Singapore Sling and home-style Chinese dishes.
Tour operator
A conservation organisation running eco-tours to the Prek Toal floating village and bird sanctuary on the Tonle Sap, with income supporting lake communities.