Attraction
Angkor Wat
Suryavarman II's 12th-century temple to Vishnu, the largest religious monument in the world and the centrepiece of the Angkor World Heritage Site.
Jayavarman VII's state temple at the heart of Angkor Thom, famed for its towers of serene stone faces and lively bas-reliefs of Khmer daily life.
Good to know
The Bayon stands at the exact centre of Angkor Thom, the walled capital built by King Jayavarman VII in the late 12th and early 13th centuries. It was his state temple and was conceived as a Mahayana Buddhist monument. After his death later kings, first Hindu and then Theravada Buddhist, modified it to suit their own beliefs, which explains some of the puzzles in its layout.
What makes the Bayon unforgettable is its crowd of stone faces. Around 200 large, calm faces gaze out from the towers that cluster around the central peak, and they seem to follow you as you move through the narrow passages and up onto the upper terrace. Thirty-seven towers survive from an original total of about 49. Scholars have identified the faces with the king himself or with the bodhisattva of compassion, Avalokiteshvara. The Japanese government team that has led conservation here since 1995 describes the temple as the most striking expression of the baroque style of Khmer architecture.
Do not skip the outer gallery. Its bas-reliefs show a naval battle between Khmer and Cham forces alongside scenes of ordinary life: market stalls, cooking over open fires, hunters, fishermen, Chinese merchants and even a cockfight. They are some of the best records of everyday life in the Angkor period. An inner gallery carries further reliefs with mythological scenes.
The official Angkor Enterprise website lists the Bayon as open from 7:30am to 5:30pm, and entry is covered by the Angkor Pass. The upper level involves steep steps and uneven stone, so take care and wear sensible shoes. The light is softest in the early morning and late afternoon, and the faces look best when the sun is low. An hour is enough for a first visit, though photographers often stay longer.
The Bayon is the natural starting point for exploring Angkor Thom. The Baphuon temple mountain lies just to the north-west, and the Terrace of the Elephants a short walk beyond it. Most visitors arrive through the South Gate of Angkor Thom, the most visited entrance, where a causeway over the moat is lined with gods on one side and demons on the other, each row pulling on a giant naga serpent. Many then combine the Bayon with Angkor Wat and Ta Prohm in a single long day.
The official Angkor Enterprise website lists the temple as open from 7:30am to 5:30pm.
Yes, the Bayon lies inside Angkor Thom in the main Angkor park, so it is covered by the standard Angkor Pass.
Around 200 large stone faces look out from the towers. Thirty-seven towers survive out of an original total of about 49.
King Jayavarman VII built it in the late 12th or early 13th century as the state temple of his capital, Angkor Thom.
The outer gallery shows a naval battle between Khmer and Cham forces and scenes of daily life such as markets, cooking, fishing and a cockfight.
Around an hour for the temple itself, longer if you want to study the reliefs or take photographs.
The upper terrace is reached by steep steps over uneven stone, so visitors with limited mobility may prefer to stay on the lower levels.
The Baphuon and the Terrace of the Elephants are a short walk to the north, and Angkor Wat is a short drive to the south.
Restaurant
Chef Joannes Riviere's dinner-only restaurant in a traditional wooden house, serving regularly changing eight-course tasting menus of seasonal Cambodian produce.
Café
A speciality coffee café open since late 2014, blending Australian café culture with Cambodian touches, known for espresso, cold drip and simple breakfasts.
Bar
An intimate cocktail lounge on Street 26 styled after 1930s Shanghai, serving martinis, a Raffles-recipe Singapore Sling and home-style Chinese dishes.
Tour operator
A conservation organisation running eco-tours to the Prek Toal floating village and bird sanctuary on the Tonle Sap, with income supporting lake communities.