Binondo Chinatown Food Crawl

Binondo sits across the Pasig River from Intramuros and was founded in 1594 by the Spanish governor Luis Pérez Dasmariñas as a settlement for Catholic Chinese converts. It is often described as the oldest Chinatown in the world, and more than four centuries later it is still where many Manileños go for Chinese food. A food crawl through its streets is one of the most enjoyable ways to spend half a day in the city.

The spine of any walk is Ongpin Street, lined with Chinese shops, tea houses, restaurants and dim sum counters. Locals and visitors alike treat it as a grazing route rather than a single meal, moving from one small place to the next. Order a few dishes at each stop and share, so that you can keep going. Smaller places may prefer cash, so carry small notes.

Between bites, look up at the district's landmarks. The Chinatown Arch and the Filipino-Chinese Friendship Arch mark the entrances to the area. Binondo Church, now the Minor Basilica and National Shrine of San Lorenzo Ruiz, was founded by Dominican priests in 1596 to serve Chinese converts. The present granite church dates from 1852 and was rebuilt in the 1950s after wartime bombing, but its octagonal, pagoda-like bell tower is the only part of the original structure to survive. The church is named after Lorenzo Ruiz, the first Filipino saint.

Go hungry and go early. Late morning on a weekday is a good time, when kitchens are busy but the lunchtime crowds have not yet arrived. Weekends and Chinese New Year bring heavy crowds, which can be fun but make it harder to get a seat. The streets are narrow and the traffic is constant, so walk with care, keep valuables out of sight and wear comfortable shoes.

If you would like context as well as food, several local operators run guided Binondo food walks that explain the history and choose the stops for you. Otherwise, it is easy to explore independently. Jones Bridge links Binondo with the Intramuros side of the river, and Escolta Street, with its pre-war commercial buildings, is just to the east. The walk suits food lovers, families with adventurous children and anyone curious about the Chinese influence on Filipino cooking.