North Gate Jazz Co-Op

North Gate Jazz Co-Op is a small bar on Sri Poom Road, beside Chang Phueak Gate on the northern side of the Old City, and it has been running since 2008. Over that time it has become a Chiang Mai institution, known well beyond the city as one of the best places in Thailand to hear live jazz in a relaxed, unpretentious setting.

The space is compact, and on most nights the crowd spills out on to the pavement. The line-up rotates between local players and visiting international musicians, and the music is not only jazz: depending on the night you may hear hip-hop, rock or slow jam sessions, and open mic nights give space to more experimental sounds. Jam sessions are one of the bar's best-known features.

Entry is free, which keeps the atmosphere open and sociable. The appeal is the community feel as much as the music, with a rotating mix of local and international performers. It suits solo travellers in particular, as it is an easy place to strike up a conversation, and anyone who prefers live music to a club.

There is no fixed schedule published in print, so check the bar's Instagram page before you go to see who is playing. Sets tend to get busier later in the evening, and arriving earlier gives you a better chance of a seat inside rather than a spot on the pavement. Keep an open mind about genres, since the programme varies across the week.

Because it is right by the north gate of the Old City, North Gate is easy to reach on foot from many guesthouses, and it is a natural follow-on from dinner in the Old City or the nearby Chang Phueak area. Khao Soi Khun Yai and Wat Chiang Man are both a short walk away for daytime visits.

If you want to talk, go early, before the sets get busy. Respect the musicians by keeping conversation down during quieter pieces. If you enjoy the evening, come back on a different night, since the line-up and style of music change through the week. Entry is free, so it costs nothing to look in.