Wat Suan Dok

Wat Suan Dok lies on Suthep Road about a kilometre west of the Old City moat. It was founded in 1370 by King Kue Na of Lanna for the monk Sumana Thera, on land that had been the king's flower garden, which is where the name comes from. It is closely tied to Doi Suthep: legend says the Buddha relic brought by Sumana Thera duplicated itself, one piece being enshrined here and the other carried up the mountain by a white elephant.

The main chedi is a 48-metre bell-shaped structure in Sri Lankan style, said to contain a relic. Its original stairs were replaced by ramps lined with seven-headed nagas, a classic Lanna touch. East of it stands a large open sermon hall built in 1932 by the monk Khruba Srivichai, who also restored the chedi and built the ordination hall. Inside the sermon hall a seated Buddha faces east and a standing image faces west towards the chedi, with an older, small Lanna-style figure in front. The ordination hall holds Phra Chao Kao Tue, a bronze Buddha cast in 1504, which combines Sukhothai and Ayutthaya stylistic features.

For many visitors the most striking sight is the royal cemetery in the north-western part of the grounds. Rows of whitewashed mausoleums contain the ashes of members of Chiang Mai's royal family, gathered here in the early 20th century by Princess Dara Rasmi, a wife of King Chulalongkorn. Seen against the main chedi, and especially with Doi Suthep behind on a clear day, they make one of the most photogenic scenes in the city.

The temple compound also houses the Chiang Mai campus of Mahachulalongkornrajavidyalaya, a Buddhist university, so you will often see monks coming and going. It is a calm, spacious site that rarely feels crowded and suits photographers in particular. Late afternoon light on the white chedis is especially good.

Allow 45 minutes. Dress modestly and remove shoes before entering halls. Wat Suan Dok is easily combined with Wat Umong by taxi or ride-hailing car.

Photographers should bring a wide lens for the rows of royal mausoleums, and it is worth walking around the main chedi to see it from several angles. Because the temple is outside the moat, it is often quieter than the Old City sites.