Wat Chedi Luang

Wat Chedi Luang is the temple built around the ruin that dominates the centre of the Old City. Work on the great chedi began in the 14th century, when the Lanna king Saenmueangma planned it as a resting place for his father's ashes, and it was finally completed in the mid-15th century under King Tilokaraj. At that point it stood around 82 metres high on a base 54 metres across, the largest building anywhere in Lanna.

In 1468 the Emerald Buddha, now in Bangkok, was installed in the eastern niche of the chedi. An earthquake in 1545 brought down the upper 30 metres or so of the structure, and in 1551 the image was taken to Luang Prabang. In the early 1990s UNESCO and the Japanese government funded a reconstruction, which remains debated because some of the new work follows central Thai rather than Lanna style. For the chedi's 600th anniversary in 1995 a black jade replica of the Emerald Buddha was placed in the restored niche.

The grounds originally held three separate temples, and there is plenty to see beyond the chedi itself. Near the entrance a large wihan houses Phra Chao Attarot, a standing Buddha cast in the late 14th century. On the far side there is a reclining Buddha in its own pavilion. Most significant locally is the shrine of the Sao Inthakin, the city pillar, which King Kawila moved here in 1800; a festival in its honour runs for several days each May.

Wat Chedi Luang is also known for its monk chat, a daily chance to sit with monks, often novices, and ask about Buddhism, monastic life or Thailand in general. It is relaxed and well suited to curious travellers of any age. As in all temples, dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered, and remove shoes before entering the halls.

Allow an hour, or longer if you join a monk chat. The chedi is especially atmospheric in the late afternoon light. The temple is close to Ratchadamnoen Road, and on Sundays the walking street market runs along Ratchadamnoen Road nearby, so it slots easily into a half-day walk around the Old City.