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Sita Ram Diwan Chand
A family-run Paharganj institution serving chole bhature, spicy chickpeas with puffed fried bread, since two brothers began selling from a bicycle in 1970.
At a glance
- Type
- Chole bhature
- Area
- Paharganj, Delhi, India
- Price
- $ · Budget
Good to know
- Family-run since 1970
- Takeaway
- Budget
Why we recommend it
Sita Ram Diwan Chand is one of the names that comes up whenever Delhi residents argue about the best chole bhature in the city. The dish, spiced chickpeas served with large, puffed, deep-fried breads, is a Punjabi favourite and a classic Delhi breakfast or lunch, and this family business has been making it in Paharganj for more than half a century.
The story began in 1970, when the brothers Sita Ram and Diwan Chand, who had come to India from Pakistan, started selling chole bhature from a bicycle opposite DAV School in Paharganj. In the 1980s Sita Ram opened a stall opposite the old Imperial Cinema, and in the 1990s the business moved into a shop near Chanakya Hotel in the same area. The third generation of the family now runs the business, which has added outlets in Pitampura and Paschim Vihar and sells ready-to-eat packs. Its longevity in a city full of rival chole bhature shops says a great deal about how loyal its customers are.
There is essentially one thing to order. A plate comes with two bhature, a bowl of chole, salad and pickle. It is filling, inexpensive and very much a local experience, and the recipe has been refined over three generations of the same family.
Expect a simple, functional shop and quick service rather than a leisurely sit-down meal. Popular places like this can be busy around lunchtime, so going earlier in the day is a good idea, and it makes a substantial breakfast or brunch before sightseeing.
It suits budget travellers, street-food enthusiasts and anyone staying in or around Paharganj who wants a genuine taste of the city. The dish is vegetarian, so it works for vegetarian travellers too. The family also sells ready-to-eat packs and delivers through food apps if you would rather eat in.
Paharganj is a central neighbourhood of guesthouses, markets and budget hotels, a short ride from Connaught Place, so the shop makes a good breakfast stop before a day of sightseeing in central Delhi. Ask your rickshaw driver for the shop by name near Chanakya Hotel, as it is easy to walk past in the crowded lanes.
Sita Ram Diwan Chand FAQs
What is Sita Ram Diwan Chand famous for?
Chole bhature, spiced chickpeas served with puffed fried bread.
When did it start?
In 1970, when brothers Sita Ram and Diwan Chand began selling from a bicycle in Paharganj.
What comes in a plate?
Two bhature, chole, salad and pickle.
Is it vegetarian?
Yes, chole bhature is a vegetarian dish.
Is it expensive?
No, it is a budget meal.
Who runs it now?
The third generation of the founding family.
When is the best time to go?
Earlier in the day, before the lunchtime crowd.
Are there other branches?
Yes, including Pitampura and Paschim Vihar, but the Paharganj shop is the original area.
Where is it?
In Paharganj, near Chanakya Hotel.